tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62385220916704405352024-03-12T17:03:15.597-07:00Blogging strikes me as narcissistic, but...Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.comBlogger144125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-85735524445985852722019-09-15T18:30:00.000-07:002019-09-19T07:38:19.871-07:00Hanging with the family in Sorrento<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's rare these days that one-year old Everest isn't our "alarm clock", but make the poor kid sleep-deprived from a red-eye flight and he sleeps like....a baby! My parents went out to get groceries this morning - a questionable plan given the maze of impassably narrow streets that present every time Google Maps (or TomTom) provide directions - and so Mindy and I had our Bellavista home to ourselves. We relaxed and soaked in the views, including Mount Vesuvius jutting up from the expansive Bay of Naples.<br />
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(Also gave me some computer time, with frequent interruptions to look out and enjoy the scenery.)</div>
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I would say that Mindy is trying to get her "pre-baby" body back, but she returned to peak form long ago. Maybe this was just in preparation for a day of indulgence. (She made me partake in the exercise, perhaps knowing I would lead the way as far as indulgence!)</div>
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With our tummys tightened, we re-grouped for a Terry Fox photo-op. After all, we're not going to lose a nearly two-decade streak of the Terry Fox Run just because we're in Italy. (Ahem, for clarity, Everest's Terry Fox streak is a mere two years as of today. Not bad for a kid who is less than two years old!)<br />
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We proceeded to head en masse into of the most picturesque towns of the Amalfi coast: Sorrento!<br />
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As parking is a challenge in the downtown, we parked once (at the same grocery store where our host met us yesterday) and began to wander.<br />
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In Parco Lauro, trees have adapted to dry summers (I surmise) by making their roots well-equipped to gather every drop of water that falls on the ground!</div>
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Elsewhere, we saw trees supported by wooden frames(?)</div>
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Next, we stumbled across one of the many limoncello shops throughout the Amalfi region. This one grows its own lemons in the adjacent grove.</div>
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Finally, we were in and amongst the narrow streets, piazzas, and shops of Sorrento's city centre.<br />
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We found a secluded garden restaurant for a delicious lunch.<br />
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Everest wasn't allowed in this store for even a moment!<br />
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You know how people spread their arms wide to show how narrow some old streets are?<br />
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Most of Sorrento is perched high on cliffs, so the beach and shore are far below.<br />
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Finally we got back to the apartment for a nap for Everest, and downtime for us.<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com080067 Sorrento, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy40.6262925 14.37579849999997440.6021885 14.335457999999974 40.6503965 14.416138999999973tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-76931493719222251992019-09-14T19:00:00.000-07:002019-09-15T09:00:34.934-07:00Planes, trains, and automobiles...with a baby<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I feel the accomplishment of summiting Everest! Only, for us, it was 21 hours of traveling with baby Everest. Maybe not in the same realm as a mountain climb, but it nonetheless required careful planning, a lot of effort, and sooo much stuff!<br />
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(If Mindy and I ever find ourselves wit hmultiple children under three years old, we have agreed we won't be taking them on a plane unless we have additional adults handy to help.)<br />
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Everest, for his part, made it as easy as he could on any two parents. 8+ hour overnight flight to Rome? Not a problem, he slept through most of it.<br />
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Shuttle to the train station? Everest and the slightly older child sitting beside him entertained each other. (The lack of a common language matters less when one of them doesn't speak any recognized language.) 2+ hour high speed train to Salerno? Everest made friends with the lady sitting across the aisle who kept offering him food. (In other settings, I'm not sure Mindy and I would be quite as easy-going about Everest getting potato chips(!) from a stranger, but we hadn't slept in 29+ hours and Everest was still tolerating the exhausting trip. We lowered our standards.) 2 hour drive to Sorrento from Salerno? The boy had the fun of his grandparents who had met up with us there, and he stayed in good spirits until he drifted off and slept. Everest was probably no edgier than the rest of us in the car as we were stuck in a 40-minute traffic jam in Sorrento - courtesy of the Gay Pride Parade. (We didn't get to see any of the actual parade, unfortunately.)<br />
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When we finally got through the traffic, we faced the dilemma of getting our wide car through an ancient, narrow, walled road. No dice. Our Airbnb host came to the rescue, meeting us at a local grocery store and leading us in her car to find the long(est) way around. (The second-most direct route also relied on a six-foot wide walled road, as we later discovered through Google Maps directions.)<br />
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Finally, we got to the accommodations my parents had found for incredible views. Worth every step of trouble along the way!<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com080067 Sorrento, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy40.6262925 14.37579849999997440.6021885 14.335457999999974 40.6503965 14.416138999999973tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-46645200910961878782018-02-26T20:34:00.000-08:002018-03-04T20:51:49.885-08:00Tram and Amsterdam<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Tram 28 has a reputation as a “must do” for tourists in
Lisbon, as it showcases (or at least passes by) many of the primary sights of
the city – St. George’s Castle, the Alfama district, and the Lisbon Cathedral, to
name a few. Unfortunately, it seems that a number of the tram operators are
unaware of TripAdvisor’s recommendation. Two nights ago, Mindy and I tried to
catch tram 28 from the stop right near our apartment in Chiado. One of the
transit drivers there (same company but driving a bus) told us that the tram 28
was no longer heading downtown from there, only the other direction. He
recommended picking up the tram at a later stop. It was late, so we didn’t
pursue it. Last night, we went to Martim Moniz square where – according to
TripAdvisor – we would be able to pick up the tram at its starting point and
probably get a seat. There, a tram driver told us that tram 28 goes nowhere
near Alfama from there. He suggested tram 15. When I asked him about “the
famous tram 28” he looked confused. So when we got on the famous tram 28 from
Martim Moniz this morning, and then ultimately passed through the stop right
near out hotel where “the tram 28 doesn’t go anymore”, it was hard to tell if
the locals were just having a laugh at some tourists’ expense. After all that
effort, too bad that the trip wasn’t as impressive as the reviews made it
sound.<br />
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With our final tour of the city complete, we ventured off to
find breakfast (Mindy had been doing her research); Sama Sama Lisbon was a
hearty treat!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Our chef was Irish, so I don’t suppose we can consider this Portuguese
fare, per se…<o:p></o:p></div>
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Taking advantage of the bright sun on our last morning here
in Lisbon, we wandered along the river and back to the main square…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKox4HF4XqbKh0WxtXBjyfEHlsl7cR2wA7h8hvpX0QnIhy-xy8Uq7x6Tbr0KTnpblfVPs8NgqtV_SSaoy9nfGkBlz9nxvWYNXOAVQbNLFULbdbMkji0tlKE56Ekc76y3wGFqpHvzG4_oDA/s1600/20180225_094336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKox4HF4XqbKh0WxtXBjyfEHlsl7cR2wA7h8hvpX0QnIhy-xy8Uq7x6Tbr0KTnpblfVPs8NgqtV_SSaoy9nfGkBlz9nxvWYNXOAVQbNLFULbdbMkji0tlKE56Ekc76y3wGFqpHvzG4_oDA/s320/20180225_094336.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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…and back through the main promenade to our apartment one
last time.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz58a6jS6sWZluWBPh4rmCkO1DRwP5V2K0WoOqhZkOmPcgRcFtZ43HFX72KEQQzAZcy89K-Lkwlqh9Qn_ddqrEs0SW7atKhvjS5HYPrBewqPwUoNBqRAjJvmUpv4wd51-2g-r0eClyUywx/s1600/20180225_095652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz58a6jS6sWZluWBPh4rmCkO1DRwP5V2K0WoOqhZkOmPcgRcFtZ43HFX72KEQQzAZcy89K-Lkwlqh9Qn_ddqrEs0SW7atKhvjS5HYPrBewqPwUoNBqRAjJvmUpv4wd51-2g-r0eClyUywx/s320/20180225_095652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RIFAsJdg2g-qIKOOro_gCUy2eRhVFR5l3s8PwKkwejetANb5EoDRWmxXILP4py5qKLz9U1FX-63kiQXp_Wcyo_JrbjmogI-bLp5sTax7AXMKquttPwyLuR0d8sK4wDO3fBP0lBsjv3QZ/s1600/20180225_095502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1600" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RIFAsJdg2g-qIKOOro_gCUy2eRhVFR5l3s8PwKkwejetANb5EoDRWmxXILP4py5qKLz9U1FX-63kiQXp_Wcyo_JrbjmogI-bLp5sTax7AXMKquttPwyLuR0d8sK4wDO3fBP0lBsjv3QZ/s320/20180225_095502.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Like so many international destination cities, Lisbon’s
metro connected easily to the airport (Toronto finally has a rail link, though
not the subway). We were on our way to our next destination: Amsterdam!<o:p></o:p><br />
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A quick jaunt to Amsterdam for 17 hours would not normally
be worth it, but we haven’t seen our friend Paul since our wedding, dinner will
have to do for now! (I love the Netherlands and look forward to another real holiday
here.)<o:p></o:p><br />
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Paul picked us up and took us to a restaurant on the water
(a little outside of Amsterdam) just as the sun was setting.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0DIk_zLszQvXJCiSpkTyPsLD-r8_weuueIpG2BsH1voIRtqeQsYzeQ-wZ4-gcJmlOWEBuK4cc7YU7qdY05HqRNBC3ikVbhIi_hxxr2rj0cZexpCLdDbBch3uGjqySYLxTMgFD8YnT2Wl/s1600/20180225_184903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0DIk_zLszQvXJCiSpkTyPsLD-r8_weuueIpG2BsH1voIRtqeQsYzeQ-wZ4-gcJmlOWEBuK4cc7YU7qdY05HqRNBC3ikVbhIi_hxxr2rj0cZexpCLdDbBch3uGjqySYLxTMgFD8YnT2Wl/s320/20180225_184903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Good food at de Dikke Muis; even better company. <o:p></o:p><br />
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Eventually we parted ways and headed back into Amsterdam for
the night. It was cold and late. So we deferred sight seeing to the morning,
when I did a quick tour of some of my favourite sights along Damrak and the nearby canals.<br />
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We even found time for some traditional Dutch cheese tasting
(and buying)!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC-mPCURMkTi7c1oJ2ZLOP1xY4GDhr5jP5tpKElPyiQHEn8ps0cJpxQ2zaHri-oGLTcon56OjbiRsSvE2LJcz5T8FGZULPx_5eXLK8w2RtHzNg85_Cu04BvfvDZ6804mebao_I7RMYYGU6/s1600/20180226_091956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC-mPCURMkTi7c1oJ2ZLOP1xY4GDhr5jP5tpKElPyiQHEn8ps0cJpxQ2zaHri-oGLTcon56OjbiRsSvE2LJcz5T8FGZULPx_5eXLK8w2RtHzNg85_Cu04BvfvDZ6804mebao_I7RMYYGU6/s320/20180226_091956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Eventually, we directed our feet back to Amsterdam train
station, Schiphol Airport, and ultimately back home.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-77729853628939177232018-02-24T19:57:00.000-08:002018-03-04T20:34:07.726-08:00A Palace at Sintra<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">When we were planning this trip, Mindy learned about the various
palaces in the city of Sintra, a short train ride away from Lisbon. Mindy
wanted to see the beautiful palaces and breathe in the fresh air of the
mountains, and I wanted to learn about the history of the place – another
Sandeman’s tour seemed appropriate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">We arrived a few minutes before the designated time and were told
to grab a coffee as our guide hadn’t arrived yet. A few minutes later,
breakfast in hand, we returned to the meeting spot and were told our guide had
already left??!! Slight breakdown in communication…. Anyway, the small group
was only just leaving the square so we caught up easily enough and started the
journey to Sintra. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">During the tour yesterday, Pascal referred to Sintra as “Disney”
and we soon learned why. Sintra appears to be a series of middle ages palaces
built in the shadow of an ancient Moorish fortress. The fortress atop the
mountain is genuine, and one other palace actually hails from Portugal’s golden
age. The rest was recreated in the late 19<sup>th</sup> and early 20<sup>th</sup>
centuries by those with money and a romantic notion of Europe’s romantic era.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">The Moorish fortress was built to protect Lisbon from Viking
invasions (they landed away from Lisbon’s fortified harbor and marched on the
city from the mountains).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">The striking twin chimneys of this palace reflect its primary use
as a hunting lodge. Each chimney could handle several animals being roasted on
spits in the palace kitchen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">In Portugal’s checkered past of royal succession, this palace also
represented the bastard King John’s efforts to solidify his reign. He enlarged
the palace and built houses for client’s wishing to receive his patronage.
Inside, a hall is entirely dedicated to those noblemen who supported his claim
to the throne. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">This fountain was built in the early twentieth century as a homage
to the old style of making tiles, where the tints are prevented from bleeding
into one another through shallow depressions in the tile itself – made while
the clay is still soft.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Though Quinta da Regaleira</span><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><b> </b></i><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">palace was built in the 1920s by the fabulously
wealthy Carvalho Monteiro, (this palace was one of two private residences with electricity
when it was built; the other being the King’s palace...) its novelty as a
fantasy land doesn’t detract from its picturesque beauty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span> </div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">The grounds also reflect a number of Masonic characteristics,
suggesting that Monteiro was one of that secret society.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">The inverted tower or initiation well leads to a labyrinth of
caves. When a new member of the order was initiated, he would have to then make
his way through the unlit caves in the black of night and walk on water to be
reborn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Mindy’s ability to walk on water looks a little less impressive in
the daylight. Also, the water level used to be high enough that the stone were
ever-so-slightly submerged.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<br /></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">And finally, we were at the house, itself.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Until the 1970s, this house and these grounds were all owned by a
Japanese corporation that used it for company retreats. When they planned to
knock it down, a Portuguese citizen (believed to be a Mason) lobbied the
national government to purchase it from this private company and turn it into a
heritage monument.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Tired from the walking and the intense history lesson from our
guide Francisco, we returned to the train and journeyed back to Lisbon. (We
planned to meet the group for lunch at Lawrence’s restaurant, the oldest
restaurant in Sintra, but ultimately decided we would be better served by a
meal on the train and more time in Lisbon.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Back wandering through the city streets, we bought some Ginginha
from the original store (and a shot of it right there) and found a tasty little
sport for a smoothie to tide us over until dinner. (It may seem like we ate
lunch and then immediately needed a snack before dinner. The truth is that we
had a light breakfast, then subsisted on a sugar high from a couple of pastries
in Sintra until a small sandwich each on the train back. We hadn’t eaten much,
and most of what we did eat was flour and sugar.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Mindy found another tasty vegetarian spot for dinner...though in
her pregnant state, I suspect the 700m walk up steep streets and stairs made
her rethink this destination. (NAME) was tasty and in my opinion well worth the
walk. (Not quite as good as Jardim de los Sentidos, but they can’t all be
“tens”.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">While Mindy got settled in the apartment, I spent a few more
minutes wandering through Lisbon to soak in our last evening here. While Mindy
and I had been out together, we were occasionally approached by people looking
to sell drugs. (It was hilarious and scary how quickly it would escalate:
“Psst, want some hash? Marijuana? Cocaine?”) When I was out solo on the streets
at night, I literally had someone following me trying to get me to buy. “Want
some hash? Marijuana? Cocaine? I’ll give you a good price. Really cheap. I’ve
got anything you want? Tell you what – try some for free and if you like it you
pay me? Ok? Deal? Want some for free?”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Mum, I guess you were right. Sometimes they really will offer you
the first one free!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-82870030852461677582018-02-23T00:47:00.000-08:002018-03-04T19:57:19.607-08:00Racing to Lisbon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's not often these days that I get out of bed first thing for a run, but the appeal of a sunrise run along the beach made it happen!<br />
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I tried running barefoot along the beach but...I'm not as fit as I used to be. It was frying my legs! I put my shoes back on and ran along the road and boardwalk...</div>
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I loved this relaxing morning sitting at breakfast and listening to the waves crashing upon the shore just steps away.</div>
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And all of a sudden, as I chilled out and relaxed at breakfast (brunch, by now), Mindy pointed out that we had to leave <i>right now</i> to catch our tour in Lisbon. As in, the drive was expected to be 2h 40m and the tour started in 3 hours. Eek! We threw our stuff in the car and bolted. (Thankfully the apartment where we are staying is 160m from the </div>
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Plenty of signs advertised exciting ruins and archaeological sights along the way from Faro to Lisbon - I felt taunted by all these compelling stops along the way with no time to visit them! (Stopping for gas was nearly too long...)</div>
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We made it! Running up to the square and Sandeman's characteristic red umbrellas with only moments to spare, the English tour guide (who actually is English, too - moved to Lisbon "for no reason at all" and then fell in love with the city and subsequently one of its inhabitants) had just started his introductions. I was distracted for the first few minutes of the tour - trying to connect to WiFi to email the hosts at our apartment as we had planned to get the keys before the tour... Eventually Pascal handed me his phone and invited me to use that to email them, instead.<br />
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For me, the tour started at this old church ruin. It was a church, until the day Portugal suffered an earthquake, fire and flood all in one day. (If one ever needed a reason to think god is angry....) The earthquake was the first to damage the church, causing the roof to cave in - crushing some of the parishioners and knocking over candles that were lit for the service. While the candle flame spread to the wooden frame of the church, the "lucky" survivors in the church ran out and down to the river. These Lisbon-ites saw the hand of Moses at work as the riverbed was dry, affording them opportunity to flee across the river. Instead, they fell to their knees in prayer to the holy saint, right as the tsunami of water rushed back in and flooded lower Lisbon. The church up the hill was partially flooded, but not enough to put out all the fire from the toppled candles. The fire spread through the wooden structures and ultimately consumed much of the city.<br />
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Avoiding the fare for the elevator ride to the top, we looked out from the platform across the city.<br />
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Making our way to the main square of Lisbon - the erstwhile execution grounds back in the middle ages (known as a good place for dates, according to written records of the era - we also learned that the Portuguese liqueur Ginginha was borne out of the Portuguese government's attempt to dispossess the religious class. When the government took their lands and their ability to raise funds, the monasteries looked to what <span style="font-family: inherit;">they had at hand to make money. One thing some of them had at hand was sour cherries, and kno</span>wledge of fermentation into alcohol. (Later, I went back to this original shop for Ginginha to supply our bar back at home.)<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Walking down the main thoroughfare of Lisbon to the old city
gates, Pascal explained various Portuguese specialties such as vinho verte
(“Green wine”) and tinto vinho verte (“red green wine”) – freely admitting that
the latter held little appeal to most Portuguese. He said it was an experience
to be had…but I never ended up having it. We arrived at the gates to the city
with a large square and the river beyond.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At this conclusion of the tour, Mindy and I rushed back to meet
our hosts and get into our apartment, and also to return our rental car. (I
highly recommend S<a href="https://www.surpricecars.com/" target="_blank">urPrice car rental</a>, by the way – easiest process for picking
up and dropping off the car with no attempts to upsell us on things we didn’t
need.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Our spacious <a href="http://www.chiado-apartments.com/en/home" target="_blank">Chiado Apartment</a> overlooked the main
square in Chiado and gave us a great view of the bustling city below. (At
night, this had the downside of putting us within hearing range of a terrible
busker singing (kind of) on the street below. As our bedroom was toward the
back of the apartment and away from the street, this was only a minor
disturbance.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Though we were warned it may be difficult to find vegetarian fare
in Lisbon, Mindy found the delectable <a href="http://jardimdosentidos.com/" target="_blank">Jardim de los Sentidos</a> for
dinner that night, where I also tried Ginginha for the first time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When we
return to Lisbon – because before this first day was out we already knew we
would come back for a more dedicated Lisbon holiday – we will be returning to
Jardim on a routine basis.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-82038401134593933732018-02-22T23:58:00.000-08:002018-02-25T00:46:48.842-08:00Turning a day of driving into destinations<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We're in the south of Spain for our last breakfast, but we opted for a French breakfast at El Taller 2.0 - an artistic cafe Mindy had spotted (closed) yesterday. El Taller 2.0 ("The Workshop 2.0") is run by a couple - one of them is an artist on canvas and the other is an artist in the kitchen. It was an excellent conclusion to the enjoyable cuisine we've experienced in Tarifa.<div>
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And then we bade farewell to Tarifa and the southernmost point of Spain.</div>
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We drove through scenic Spanish countryside,</div>
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...on our way to our first stop: Vejer de la Frontera, a small city atop a series of hills with steep ravines. Historically, the city's high perch would have afforded protection from invaders. Today, it provides beautiful vistas!</div>
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Even the donkeys like the view!<br /></div>
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We were there for only a few minutes and yet we witnessed a couple of different tourists feeding them apples (Admittedly, the second group were at Mindy's suggestion.) </div>
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Moving into the city, proper, Mindy was once again treated to animal affection while I focused more on the human parts of the city.</div>
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Our real "side-trip" destination for the day was Cadiz. A massive and industrialized port city. Cadiz was a little disappointing as we first arrived - we drove through some dirtier and poorer areas coming in from the South East. Soon enough, the dirt was behind us and we arrived in the main square of the beautifully preserved historic city centre.</div>
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The cathedral in Cadiz is simply massive. Imposing from the outside and awe-inspiring from the inside - the sheer size implies the force of god (or is that God?).</div>
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Over the years, this church has acquired numerous valuable artefacts. Perhaps the most impressive of these is the 17th century silver monstrance that towers over you from one of the side chapels. </div>
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We climbed the bell tower for the views of Cadiz and the square below. </div>
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We made the mistake of standing beneath one of those enormous bells when it rang the quarter hour!</div>
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After a quick lunch and some more wandering through the narrow streets of the city, we were back on the road toward Faro.</div>
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Faro in southern Portugal is largely a gateway town for the pristine beaches and sandstone caves nearby. We stopped to check out the historic downtown...and by staying for about 40 minutes, I feel we did it justice...</div>
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As the last traces of the sun set, we arrived at our <a href="http://www.luxurybeachguesthouse.pt/en/Homepage.aspx" target="_blank">beach house</a> for the night. Looking forward to seeing the sun rise over the ocean tomorrow!</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-57467912581522956752018-02-21T02:22:00.000-08:002018-02-23T23:57:55.762-08:00Rocking the Casbah!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was cold sitting outside at dinner last night, so I had a
tough time deciding what to wear this morning. Do I dress lightly for the
African desert, or warmly for the chilly morning and evening? We were on our
way to Morocco!<o:p></o:p><br />
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Clearly, I am not writing this in real time, so let me start
by emphasizing: “Wow! What an incredible and magical day this was! Such an
incredible introduction to the city of Tangier and Moroccan culture!” This was
a day to remember!<o:p></o:p><br />
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We met Said – the main guide, and Mustafa – our personal
guide for the day, right at the gate to the ferry. Specifically, as we were
walking off the ramp, someone called out to me:<o:p></o:p><br />
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“Have you booked a tour?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Yes” I replied.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Are you Matt? Are you looking for Said?”<o:p></o:p><br />
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I guess we look very much like tourists.<o:p></o:p><br />
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We set out on the tour to see the main attractions outside
of the city centre, first. We started with the largest mosque in Tangier, <o:p></o:p><br />
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and a tour through the newer Spanish and British quarters,
including views of the city and Perdicaris Park.<br />
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We learned about the history of Tangier (invaded at various
times by eight other countries) and about the progressive agenda of the current
King (in terms of women’s emancipation, economical development, and foreign
investment). <o:p></o:p><br />
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Then, the tour got really exciting, really fast! <o:p></o:p><br />
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Kicking things off was a camel ride along the beach. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The baby camel in the background was two days old!<o:p></o:p><br />
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We explored Hercules’ Cave where, legend has it, Hercules
rested after <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pillars_of_Hercules" target="_blank">either</a>:<br />
1. Separating Africa and Europe by spreading apart the pillars of Hercules (this was according to our guide, Mustafa);<o:p></o:p><br />
2. Smashing through one massive mountain that was once the god Atlas, leaving two smaller mountains behind, to avoid having to hike over/around the mountain; or<br />
3. Narrowing the Strait of Gibraltar to prevent sea monsters from the Atlantic entering the Mediterranean. </div>
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Mustafa took us to Café Hafa to enjoy traditional Moroccan
Mint tea (also known playfully as “Moroccan Whiskey” in a country where Islam’s
prominence makes drinking alcohol a discrete event). Stunning views of the
Atlantic coastline in this café frequented – near as we could tell – by locals.
(The call to prayer was going on as we made our way to the restaurant. Mustafa
excused himself while we were drinking tea, possibly to pray.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally, we entered the casbah, the old fortress that is the
ancient city centre.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Mustafa - of Berber origin, himself - had explained the three main languages in Tangier: Arab, Berber, and French. Occasionally, one sign depicts them all</div>
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Before stopping for lunch, I got a lot closer to a poisonous
snake than I ever expected to…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34kWw2mkEhBqKdxE88qEWNMfRtwopoo37zq2Odt4jtmwVCK-XBV5cOul_iEnESFIB8Q2NpY37gPprymuXrpBmTq0Snj96FN-mtOjjy73Gn-5c_AZCZK2Du1VwhCABaU0bBhimx1N6CR3P/s1600/20180221_134828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34kWw2mkEhBqKdxE88qEWNMfRtwopoo37zq2Odt4jtmwVCK-XBV5cOul_iEnESFIB8Q2NpY37gPprymuXrpBmTq0Snj96FN-mtOjjy73Gn-5c_AZCZK2Du1VwhCABaU0bBhimx1N6CR3P/s320/20180221_134828.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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…though still not as close as the snake charmer!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSRSpLbHEfj4a7FQuzesrxP4rsVdVw7-2BLREFEvtKlReNJbIOSW3KHj7zPoO247rvB_SmLmcLQA0GsCZjszq0f-e5IizS0TnBTPCVAYoGz3eNhVLhWdGvKKqegR8R7pbeUDsxgEmPL5T/s1600/20180221_134734_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSRSpLbHEfj4a7FQuzesrxP4rsVdVw7-2BLREFEvtKlReNJbIOSW3KHj7zPoO247rvB_SmLmcLQA0GsCZjszq0f-e5IizS0TnBTPCVAYoGz3eNhVLhWdGvKKqegR8R7pbeUDsxgEmPL5T/s320/20180221_134734_001.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHpwp1ni9W8GEG-EVaGA4NLDVMjjYIfhX-pCvM_JrOXVa3IDSp15sfywZb2WIxrWi8ehFePSWJSs0kOJFteaFTMg39VRDRjF0_e4QAu-0kHvEgJm_El_LPJwSDj6Xf11jruMYUcyVZZE-W/s1600/20180221_134720%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHpwp1ni9W8GEG-EVaGA4NLDVMjjYIfhX-pCvM_JrOXVa3IDSp15sfywZb2WIxrWi8ehFePSWJSs0kOJFteaFTMg39VRDRjF0_e4QAu-0kHvEgJm_El_LPJwSDj6Xf11jruMYUcyVZZE-W/s320/20180221_134720%255B1%255D.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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For lunch, we ate traditional Moroccan cuisine from a
traditional Moroccan tagine. We were serenaded by traditional musicians in the
background.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-iUS5c90KnOrC9Arm-ozXod9gzbzLe_lc1ntfxJ2JB9yV_sCB_x4SJqYV8Ov5TGQvPu48St7u57nkT7Bo1j5NPnRJZlpbjSvysuzB36ZYRVNoL9F1faAXvHQN2hSITNPKOSvtkGjwa4S/s1600/20180221_141734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-iUS5c90KnOrC9Arm-ozXod9gzbzLe_lc1ntfxJ2JB9yV_sCB_x4SJqYV8Ov5TGQvPu48St7u57nkT7Bo1j5NPnRJZlpbjSvysuzB36ZYRVNoL9F1faAXvHQN2hSITNPKOSvtkGjwa4S/s320/20180221_141734.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Once we were fed, we were back out to explore the old city
some more. Said was at the restaurant and in his intensely friendly way –
leaning right in and gripping my hand – explained that Mustafa would take us
anywhere we wanted to go. I asked about the fledgling wine industry in Morocco,
acknowledging that it might be a sensitive topic in a Muslim country. As Said walked
us toward the market with Mustafa following, Said would stop every few feet and
lean in again – to tell us where Mustafa would take us to get wine, to tell us
about the ceramics we were going to see in the market, and to tell us that he would
personally get our passports stamped at the ferry to head back to Tarifa at the
end of the day. Talk about intense (and excellent!) customer service!<o:p></o:p><br />
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Said explained that Moroccan wine was excellent. Being a
Muslim, he had never drunk it, himself, but he gave a tour to Frances Ford
Coppola, who owns a winery in California. Coppola told him that Moroccan wine
is excellent, and Coppola knows. So there you have it!<o:p></o:p><br />
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We stopped at various shops to see textiles and ceramics.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We wandered the alleyways where Moroccans went about their
daily business.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6-rmffcDhIGjBYVWqsPdgj1OorI_aT1t8KtC5SLkVykyn2hFKoClJZ20g-clMsNy3MWNPKtMd-Zkzrd7R7aBy_3wrIRjDETCzDMxw5J2K4coIsBk0nKTpN-oHpYB7alAsGJueujNGDHm/s1600/20180221_161431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6-rmffcDhIGjBYVWqsPdgj1OorI_aT1t8KtC5SLkVykyn2hFKoClJZ20g-clMsNy3MWNPKtMd-Zkzrd7R7aBy_3wrIRjDETCzDMxw5J2K4coIsBk0nKTpN-oHpYB7alAsGJueujNGDHm/s320/20180221_161431.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Mustafa showed us the community oven, where Moroccans – many
of whom don’t have ovens in their homes – bring their dough to have bread baked
each day.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5U9Mj-IFtBNJkEWsneHY7fcUmCkPk-JZ34MCwGAzZ9anm97IgBMuNOpjCr4jBofeeQKcUyfL_b4i4YkilEz4EkrHvkjp9PyJQwHv8YiV3Pw2nZC7eRmLm8bfPywJ2kIMr9A6edbIllBL/s1600/20180221_160439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5U9Mj-IFtBNJkEWsneHY7fcUmCkPk-JZ34MCwGAzZ9anm97IgBMuNOpjCr4jBofeeQKcUyfL_b4i4YkilEz4EkrHvkjp9PyJQwHv8YiV3Pw2nZC7eRmLm8bfPywJ2kIMr9A6edbIllBL/s320/20180221_160439.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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And this brought an interesting perspective on rents in
Tangier. Like many places (including Toronto), average rent in Tangier takes up
about half of someone’s salary. However, things we take for granted – such as indoor
plumbing and appliances – aren’t guaranteed in Tangier apartments. We didn’t
delve into the details enough with Mustafa to know what a fully-appointed
apartment would go for, but it trikes me that there is a major cost to live in
this most industrialized of Moroccan cities. <o:p></o:p><br />
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On our way back to the ferry, we stopped at what was
essentially a convenience store to buy Moroccan wine. This was clearly a
functional stop. Hopefully Coppola is right and Moroccan wine really is good – we
bought two bottles knowing this isn’t exactly an LCBO item.<o:p></o:p><br />
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By this point, I was starting to get rather anxious about
making our ferry back. The ferry was scheduled to leave at 5pm and it was
getting close. We arrived at the ferry terminal, and then had to wait a few
minutes for Said as my anxiety grew. Finally Said arrived and he walked us
right past the line-ups, personally handed our passports to the customs
officers, then walked us past the line-up and up the gangplank for the ferry. I
felt like royalty, with a touch of guilt at bypassing the line where over a
hundred people waited patiently. (I assume Said has “arrangements” with the
customs officers to allow for this kind of freedom.) Turns out Said and Mustafa
knew exactly what they were doing, as the 5pm ferry didn’t leave until 5:45pm.
SO our Moroccan adventure ended (until we come back for a longer trip!).<o:p></o:p></div>
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We wandered the narrow alleys and streets in Tarifa looking
for a restaurant that was actually open for dinner. As a gateway to Morocco,
this city rocks. As a tourist destination unto itself? It’s appealing, but
probably needs a little more development.<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-49356435103134184252018-02-20T12:41:00.000-08:002018-02-23T02:21:50.872-08:00Cross Countries<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We could have had breakfast at the hotel (more bread and
cheese), but for not much more, we loaded up on organic fruits and snacks from <a href="https://laortiga.com/" target="_blank">La Ortiga</a> grocery store on our way out of Seville.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3gN-JWYIa7xb6ju0vbtKUX0Cx3Oav4-WRpSu8l7DA6vkhJUbPQSucDJscHmQ-qTs4_dtDN5Flbe8vJ6yi6eKJ_zPjz75UQpWhJfCM2BkGtbEkqU4Mgf3SMMM0k-OR31E2JFT_jg0EMex/s1600/20180220_112110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1175" data-original-width="1600" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3gN-JWYIa7xb6ju0vbtKUX0Cx3Oav4-WRpSu8l7DA6vkhJUbPQSucDJscHmQ-qTs4_dtDN5Flbe8vJ6yi6eKJ_zPjz75UQpWhJfCM2BkGtbEkqU4Mgf3SMMM0k-OR31E2JFT_jg0EMex/s320/20180220_112110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Southern Spain is largely scenic rolling countryside.
As we turned from one highway to another, we randomly spotted some
decorative steeples poking up above the trees. We proceeded to investigate, and
found a monastery (<a href="http://cartujajerez.es/" target="_blank">Monasterio de las hermanas de Belen</a>) founded in the fifteenth century!<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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The main gate is from the sixteenth century, as is the
church that stands there now. Stunning! With a picturesque courtyard that was
so quiet and protected.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WdkECswepEYjLu9SXqE5MsWIGMmJGlzNAqhGbVcVT34SFSiBxPhrAGZQic6TcpRiTKQYWYykfS9tZo8sf9naDKFXUgP3POM-qsuwlnJkjFJhnQzlcnIb3IHm-tRfEe8_laS9dYiSPZOQ/s1600/20180220_123108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WdkECswepEYjLu9SXqE5MsWIGMmJGlzNAqhGbVcVT34SFSiBxPhrAGZQic6TcpRiTKQYWYykfS9tZo8sf9naDKFXUgP3POM-qsuwlnJkjFJhnQzlcnIb3IHm-tRfEe8_laS9dYiSPZOQ/s320/20180220_123108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mindy noticed that a small door was ajar within the main
doors of the church and so we explored this quiet sanctum. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvYs7arvX_HJrtaZw3PwvsQ4NJ7sKgVI1Yg610_LNCHLilRK8A1euYXu3JmlGcj7o7xk-8zzDur4U1c-iS4psXEzttQ-1QYvshnmjKyzBx0OjasLttKwTffEQ9KmQHXNHipYklsieU2-R/s1600/20180220_123401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvYs7arvX_HJrtaZw3PwvsQ4NJ7sKgVI1Yg610_LNCHLilRK8A1euYXu3JmlGcj7o7xk-8zzDur4U1c-iS4psXEzttQ-1QYvshnmjKyzBx0OjasLttKwTffEQ9KmQHXNHipYklsieU2-R/s320/20180220_123401.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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(I took that photo inside the church before I read the sign requesting no photos. Oops.)</div>
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We only got the chance to explore a small part of the whole monastic compound.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia544PbMEeztdLoNyqXkNHad1ozs53Z6nfbYUy9ttQMJIJaepbTyd91gMDNSelScXlBRpcm2atg8bqT3dlLcUzNs65C2ldc7HQJIiMdygGdsLaqpoC87YmsGfoipZT-pSQ7AQyhqJj5A-O/s1600/20180220_124600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia544PbMEeztdLoNyqXkNHad1ozs53Z6nfbYUy9ttQMJIJaepbTyd91gMDNSelScXlBRpcm2atg8bqT3dlLcUzNs65C2ldc7HQJIiMdygGdsLaqpoC87YmsGfoipZT-pSQ7AQyhqJj5A-O/s320/20180220_124600.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Back in the car after this unscheduled stop, we drove though
fields of wind turbines and the occasional giant bull sign. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimTK6Bk6vnCwQjbgS9GGowkZTb95jfmuYuh0TST6M5B6yzIgKty7NVE__TPNQvFmGhkCF3EIYQzaIAJY8im2KuQAXaJbzvPmizuLBjeur3KZ38_eWOd9MYVCYBkH6gn4Hnu7g5LizQ02TE/s1600/20180220_131806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1600" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimTK6Bk6vnCwQjbgS9GGowkZTb95jfmuYuh0TST6M5B6yzIgKty7NVE__TPNQvFmGhkCF3EIYQzaIAJY8im2KuQAXaJbzvPmizuLBjeur3KZ38_eWOd9MYVCYBkH6gn4Hnu7g5LizQ02TE/s320/20180220_131806.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS4kUk_1cCI56X7N2ozf2_gtlQF5sCHAqzzmEBAPdTvgWp5G1eYbTniq4mSRTCMfa81BMZJ6ObG-XyF6Iv3Ny0qRFgcyfWpB4iGVAvxr2YBBPnvXLDbd6taZlmxxOSyQ-26UP-_mTy6bw3/s1600/20180220_132229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS4kUk_1cCI56X7N2ozf2_gtlQF5sCHAqzzmEBAPdTvgWp5G1eYbTniq4mSRTCMfa81BMZJ6ObG-XyF6Iv3Ny0qRFgcyfWpB4iGVAvxr2YBBPnvXLDbd6taZlmxxOSyQ-26UP-_mTy6bw3/s320/20180220_132229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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(Presumably to warn drivers that there may be cows on the road?)<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Out of the blue, Mindy cried out: “Oh my god! Look at the
size of that rock!” (Or, at least, that's the "radio edit" version of what she said.) And there it was – the Rock of Gibraltar rising out of the sea.
<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mHaLwnP35DJfsa0FYkvpgcl7u_XJ7Ll1NhwSzsva13q0MSX0Y3ac3Euda7T4ZA19ILRvZj0g02GIMfUyaQejbcRZBYXo1QJ_2emnvRfmjvT4obq-C_RnnZ5vo3S9Ts80WHnF5XLOY6Uz/s1600/20180220_140210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1600" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mHaLwnP35DJfsa0FYkvpgcl7u_XJ7Ll1NhwSzsva13q0MSX0Y3ac3Euda7T4ZA19ILRvZj0g02GIMfUyaQejbcRZBYXo1QJ_2emnvRfmjvT4obq-C_RnnZ5vo3S9Ts80WHnF5XLOY6Uz/s320/20180220_140210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Slightly disappointed that we didn’t get stamps in our
passports for passing out of Spain and back into the United Kingdom (Gibraltar
is an overseas territory of Britain), we were in Gibraltar!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGvprh01b8ZA3eQ1Jb4f8Po4GTAsf0iqTP-RYDvoB9leXs5YaHniE3BMCQ8AYIPS6geQAIEq5uN1rwbf9-wezn4uNcCpha_ypEGGEQhM_OMUDHA6_dxzA-HZwxFnJQe1x_geYpOIAlgW_/s1600/20180220_143231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGvprh01b8ZA3eQ1Jb4f8Po4GTAsf0iqTP-RYDvoB9leXs5YaHniE3BMCQ8AYIPS6geQAIEq5uN1rwbf9-wezn4uNcCpha_ypEGGEQhM_OMUDHA6_dxzA-HZwxFnJQe1x_geYpOIAlgW_/s320/20180220_143231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0frzRfUqaCgQMZx96MHgEKfTK1X20cS0RlAMkwPiH2hVq8C8Q2dqu-NeDxVGC0yyuFoCwiDfXlWmhGJ9uqNgEWBIYuprWtp8de9BSzhaUsDLU9AbaySV0sCIFpJfCh88U5nwmEzyJQDB/s1600/20180220_143723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="908" data-original-width="1600" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0frzRfUqaCgQMZx96MHgEKfTK1X20cS0RlAMkwPiH2hVq8C8Q2dqu-NeDxVGC0yyuFoCwiDfXlWmhGJ9uqNgEWBIYuprWtp8de9BSzhaUsDLU9AbaySV0sCIFpJfCh88U5nwmEzyJQDB/s320/20180220_143723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTLsfbw3kZi9fEk2Sg7rujXk5p801iRYrW5VzXhyBEY-lEltngUQYRUo9-tahDeWsZphEzg7Mhzgh_RSf5Jdgh4bLuWGdTKydY5-0mfH5L5X0Yi-bhwUrnAfyK60zArXQeFLdeQ3BvQyOZ/s1600/20180220_144536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTLsfbw3kZi9fEk2Sg7rujXk5p801iRYrW5VzXhyBEY-lEltngUQYRUo9-tahDeWsZphEzg7Mhzgh_RSf5Jdgh4bLuWGdTKydY5-0mfH5L5X0Yi-bhwUrnAfyK60zArXQeFLdeQ3BvQyOZ/s320/20180220_144536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Land is at a premium in Gibraltar, and so the airport runway
is placed on the only piece of land long enough – though it is bisected by the main
road into the city. Here is Mindy walking across the runway:<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrjPeTTGwIPiwMYDzeFKPZNDS4fPMd-ZbQYMp7xGy2oylPmJacbxNpvAi-RpF7I7eCjlzUaDHDppqehMEX4So6Dkp_-B-dsPzRyfqBZyyMETj5uhh1cmNeugW6JJfUU6j588RiD09bK-y/s1600/20180220_143510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixrjPeTTGwIPiwMYDzeFKPZNDS4fPMd-ZbQYMp7xGy2oylPmJacbxNpvAi-RpF7I7eCjlzUaDHDppqehMEX4So6Dkp_-B-dsPzRyfqBZyyMETj5uhh1cmNeugW6JJfUU6j588RiD09bK-y/s320/20180220_143510.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If Mindy weren’t pregnant, we might have hiked all the way
up the rock. As her stamina isn’t quite what it used to be (the additional
weight doesn’t make it any easier for her), we climbed aboard the cable car to
the top.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2p0LBiFVHkoWs6mNMQi6-d3Nd3MPRIiJS5zPkV8w7o5tSyfMVs8IAEblnBa7wF4Tvm6mcRzNuUN4npWp4Mk5w8RlHtzeEVosal3ggorx5PikSYwXYcpzuCj9zIjhQXMzqvUi-YX2vPbj/s1600/20180220_152033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1600" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2p0LBiFVHkoWs6mNMQi6-d3Nd3MPRIiJS5zPkV8w7o5tSyfMVs8IAEblnBa7wF4Tvm6mcRzNuUN4npWp4Mk5w8RlHtzeEVosal3ggorx5PikSYwXYcpzuCj9zIjhQXMzqvUi-YX2vPbj/s320/20180220_152033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMJ3KoW9pf1B3MdNSuCUfYYVFRgaHeyRdgeelReDtlzknaBZ5wJXanFSON9gznKkkPnvMYBRG32a2tBV289AE_Shiu9gObjCxzCavOyeVkX_nWiYPSDNjNdmiJXiLNncpRNdcpD68hXnnk/s1600/20180220_152358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMJ3KoW9pf1B3MdNSuCUfYYVFRgaHeyRdgeelReDtlzknaBZ5wJXanFSON9gznKkkPnvMYBRG32a2tBV289AE_Shiu9gObjCxzCavOyeVkX_nWiYPSDNjNdmiJXiLNncpRNdcpD68hXnnk/s320/20180220_152358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And then Mindy saw the Barbary Apes for the first time:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPjsOqWBz4k7bSjoidhyphenhyphenjz2rsdwJhb2P61xtVuvilArurBxbXHc5CqmT33PGo2NGknYu2fsgpAC6K8EMwDs9P-pVXvjFiblCUfVLRHygc0_Pbk8XXK0T3eShcUl4aWZS8k2Y3DBDuH5Qf/s1600/20180220_152805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPjsOqWBz4k7bSjoidhyphenhyphenjz2rsdwJhb2P61xtVuvilArurBxbXHc5CqmT33PGo2NGknYu2fsgpAC6K8EMwDs9P-pVXvjFiblCUfVLRHygc0_Pbk8XXK0T3eShcUl4aWZS8k2Y3DBDuH5Qf/s320/20180220_152805.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVvoNre0i4WQlYLcUov1uXrHaIzEa-GBoluqdwGcXDIuo9KAKvwVe99ri2_PEbSa7_XxXnFewGkefT28U6q_E4v0rNFbojTYytveJyBl-PCWVOCZBN0lmvMiokLkGq6VyF4NKx9gE4xS9/s1600/20180220_152832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1097" data-original-width="1600" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVvoNre0i4WQlYLcUov1uXrHaIzEa-GBoluqdwGcXDIuo9KAKvwVe99ri2_PEbSa7_XxXnFewGkefT28U6q_E4v0rNFbojTYytveJyBl-PCWVOCZBN0lmvMiokLkGq6VyF4NKx9gE4xS9/s320/20180220_152832.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAA_4sqjejHExla0rOtCMT2KRbkqvO0lGHzhW8DldS_RdQrrfsS5hm7CdtpVd70afn8wUH7098u-JOfn5KpcJoTsKacJRZkxaymgLwisfEQChWWdLN1qEDv_pQHLYzXiJ-Kt388yUva_2/s1600/20180220_153533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAA_4sqjejHExla0rOtCMT2KRbkqvO0lGHzhW8DldS_RdQrrfsS5hm7CdtpVd70afn8wUH7098u-JOfn5KpcJoTsKacJRZkxaymgLwisfEQChWWdLN1qEDv_pQHLYzXiJ-Kt388yUva_2/s320/20180220_153533.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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Stunning views of the Rock, the Spanish coastline, and away
in the distance, Africa – where we are going tomorrow!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU3AeEUvbTIK1IKG62rkqAlE-jm_TRZwc2M6qKSwgdjszpOLpLq9JvLLM_4P9YVbq4v-rgsqGDetF2YuI1y9rij2HTVELX12G_PgoViTT_mcTFHcAjugpYusUgo9Lknswp0p-39urTFAyc/s1600/20180220_153821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU3AeEUvbTIK1IKG62rkqAlE-jm_TRZwc2M6qKSwgdjszpOLpLq9JvLLM_4P9YVbq4v-rgsqGDetF2YuI1y9rij2HTVELX12G_PgoViTT_mcTFHcAjugpYusUgo9Lknswp0p-39urTFAyc/s320/20180220_153821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We explored old tunnels used in World War Two to safely
(ish) house soldiers…<o:p></o:p></div>
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…and the Apes Den.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We caught one of the last cable car rides back down,
returned to Spanish territory (still no stamps in our passports) and got back
in the car.<o:p></o:p><br />
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As day turned to evening, we arrived in Tarifa. Mindy
brilliantly navigated the very narrow streets (I was happy that we had rented a
small car and hadn’t upgraded to anything bigger) as we arrived at Room Tarifa
Hotel in the old city centre.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At dinner on a street-side patio, we watched a young and
clearly new couple at the table beside us – he, speaking in broken English and
mostly Spanish, and she in mostly English and broken Spanish. He told her that
he loved her with each toast of wine (there were many) and then she took her
shoes off and placed her feet in his lap to be massaged. Of course, first, he
used her shoe as a phone. I guess they looked approachable, as someone walked
up from the street and sat down with them, holding hash under her nose and
asking if she wanted to buy any. They debated price for a while, as she
explained to the dealer that she wasn’t interested in paying very much as she
is from Amsterdam, and can get her hands on hash for very cheap whenever she
wants. Eventually the manager expelled the uninvited guest, and the couple
wandered out shortly after – perhaps to chase him down and close the deal? <o:p></o:p></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-58461204334035839012018-02-19T23:27:00.000-08:002018-02-21T12:41:17.353-08:00An unexpected tour of the city<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I love walking tours - especially the <a href="http://www.neweuropetours.eu/" target="_blank">Sandeman's Walking Tours </a>that feature in many of the main cities in Europe. Seville does not have a Sandeman's presence, so we tried <a href="https://freetoursevilla.es/" target="_blank">Seville Free Tours</a> - similar concept in that you tip at the end what you think the tour is worth. These tip-based walking tours often get guides who genuinely try their hardest to make every tour amazing.<br />
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Julio, our guide this morning in Seville, is an academic historian and so provided us with significant historic context for everything we saw. (While I lapped it up, it's fair to admit that tired Mindy found it to be an excessive avalanche of random facts.) My only complaint was that it was cold!<br />
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We started in Plaza Nueva, a giant central square in front of City Hall. This grand space was once all contained within a massive convent (until the convent burned down).<br />
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Now the square is headed by the City Hall, which is adorned with the slogan of Seville "NODO" (with an infinity sign in the middle).<br />
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In rare cases throughout the city, the lamp-posts are covered in rats - not real ones. This is an artistic memorial to the black plague, though I didn't quite catch why...</div>
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Seville is home to the largest Roman Catholic Cathedral in the world. The thing is, it hasn't always been a cathedral. Parts of it were originally built as a Mosque, and the massive bell tower was one of the minarets. This accounts for the very plain walls (at the base of the tower, for instance) - though contrasted with the highly ornate Gothic decoration along other, newer, parts.<br />
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At a side gate to the cathedral complex, we looked into the orange courtyard. A carryover from early Chinese merchants doing business in Seville who believed that an orange tree in your yard was a symbol of good luck.<br />
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These oranges, as well as those from the trees lining the streets, are harvested and sold to make gin and other liquor. Our guide warned us that the oranges do not taste good fresh as they are bitter oranges.<br />
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The main palace in Seville - Real Alcazar - is a massive 14 hectare complex including courtyards and gardens, as well as the palace rooms proper. It is still where visiting kings and queens stay - not in a hotel. The enclosing wall is a carryover from earlier - less stable - times in Seville's history.<br />
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Although Seville sits in a valley, the palace is on the highest point and there is a gradual slope down to the river. This square was once the edge of the city, with only marsh and river beyond. (There was a massive public works project in the last hundred or so years to fill in the marsh and control the river.)</div>
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The Gold Tower, twinned with its counterpart across the river, used a chain running along the surface of the water to prevent boats from entering the harbour until they had paid an import tax.<br />
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The little room at the top was built later, as a bedroom for king and his consorts.<br />
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The Plaza de Espana was originally the Spanish pavilion for the World Expo in 1929, It has since featured in Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars Two: Attack of the Clones.<br />
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Which brought us to the end of our walking tour - leaving the most picturesque to the end, of course.<br />
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Mindy and I slowly made our way back to the bus station in order to head back to our hotel. The plan was for 90 minutes or so of downtime before the evening. We found the same bus that had brought us down and boarded. Then...things started to go downhill. I thought I heard the bus driver tell another passenger that we were headed to the airport. I went to ask him in my (very) broken Spanish, and he looked bewildered and told me this was the wrong bus. He called a helper who directed us off that bus (no refund on the fare) and identified the bus we wanted (where we paid a new fare). We checked with the bus driver that this bus would take us to our hotel, and pointed to the hotel on the map. Technically, we pointed to the name of the hotel with an arrow up, as our hotel was 5km away from the top-most landmark on the map - the train station. In retrospect, I think what happened was that the original bus driver thought I wanted to go to the airport, and the next bus driver thought we were pointing to the train station rather than the name of the hotel. Because...the bus we were on headed out, and proceeded to go NOWHERE near our hotel.<br />
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On the bright side, we got to see the best-preserved section of Sevilla's ancient walls in the Macarena neighbourhood. (We didn't see anyone dancing.) We crossed the river into the Triana neighbourhood, known for Flamenco bars. We saw the Plaza de Espana again as our bus brought us full circle back to our boarding point. Sigh. Mindy spoke to the bus driver again who seemed amused that we had taken the full loop, and once again assured us that our desired station was only a few stops away. At the next stop, I saw that we could transfer to another bus that I knew - actually knew - would go by our hotel, so we paid another fare (if they have transfers, we didn't know how to get them) and finally made it "home".<br />
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Cleaned up and refreshed (though with much less time than we had planned), we headed back downtown for our evening. We took the bus back down (the fast, direct route this time) and wandered through the Real Alcazar grounds on our way into the city centre.<br />
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With a little time on our hands before our Flamenco show, we wandered the narrow alleyways around the palace in the old city centre. There are a number of cities in the world where some streets are so narrow that I could stretch my arms across...<br />
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...even Mindy could touch both sides here!</div>
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La Casa de Flamenco was in a traditional old house, and reflected four styles of traditional Flamenco over an hour-long show. An astounding mix of Stomp, tap dance, ballet and Dirty Dancing set to Spanish guitar and Jazz-like vocals. All of the musicians make exaggerated and extreme facial expressions. I can honestly say I have never been so excited and emotionally impacted by a dance show.<br />
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After the show, we took advantage of the dying light to enjoy Seville's most impressive sights one last time before a dinner of tapas. I washed down my food with the Seville sweet wine made of oranges.<br />
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Walking through a new part of the city on the way back to the hotel, we were commenting how the old architecture makes every building, every alleyway look so good!<br />
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We found the right bus and quickly made our way back to the hotel.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-33030187205711161612018-02-18T13:20:00.000-08:002018-02-19T23:27:10.396-08:00Getting the Estre-MOST our of our drive<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We arrived in Lisbon last night, and this morning it is already time to leave. No offense, Lisbon - we'll be back soon to really visit!<br />
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Our rental car on this trip is a hybrid, which makes me want to drive really slowly the whole way in order to avoid using any gasoline. Mindy didn't seem to think that was a good idea, so we rocketed out of Lisbon at 120km/hour as the locals blew past us, easily 20-40km faster than we were going.<br />
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Escaping Lisbon starts along the 17km long Vasco de Gama bridge - truly an engineering marvel!<br />
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I guess it was low tide, as we saw dozens of people out digging for clams(?) in the mud that stretched several kilometres at the edge of the river.<br />
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Along the bridge and continuing on our drive through Portugal, we saw Algarve storks, with their giant nests (even though they are expected to migrate to Africa for the winter, so I wonder how many more there would have been in summer months). Most of these nests were large by any standard; I'm not sure if this one was giant for a reason, or if these birds just weren't very good at making nests...<br />
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Looking to break the monotony of the drive, we stopped at the charming little town Mora and found a pretty square for a nata tart and a drink.<br />
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There was WiFi, so I looked up to see if other little towns along the way would be worthwhile side-trips. The town of Estremoz near the border with Spain had a Keep that looked worth a photo.<br />
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My heart started racing as we approached this beautifully preserved medieval town (with goats pastured on the fields leading to the walls) and saw we would have to cross a draw-bridge to get into the city walls toward the Castle of Estremoz.<br />
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We followed the quiet cobbled streets and alleyways uphill toward the Keep at the top.<br />
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What an incredible sight of the church and fortress in the protected land, with stunning views of the surrounding area!<br />
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The most secured building in the whole place doubled as a jail in medieval times - thick stone walls and metal reinforced windows within the stone walls of the Keep, behind the stone walls protecting the city. Now it is the incredible restaurant A Cadeia Quinhentista, showcasing the best in the flavours of the region. I tried partridge with truffles, mushrooms, chestnuts and grapes while Mindy had a rich mushroom tortellini. The food was delectable and the setting was incredible.<br />
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The thick, stone window ledge beside me had some very old graffiti (behind glass, now).<br />
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After a much longer stop than anticipated, we were back in the car heading toward Seville.<br />
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Facing another time change - so it was later again than it felt - we got to the hotel late and ultimately to bed approaching 2am. A reasonable bed-time by Spanish standards!<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-29936905299122379512018-02-17T11:04:00.001-08:002018-02-17T15:36:42.373-08:00London Calling<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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23 hours in London, and we spent 7 hours sleeping??!! We
must be crazy! Got to make the most of the time that remains.<br />
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After a spot of tea in the hotel room, we headed out on the
walking tour we devised for ourselves through Google maps and Trip Advisor back
home. We wandered under London Bridge to the tune of the nursery rhyme song,
and then found ourselves at the edge of the Thames, looking across at the grand
St Paul’s Cathedral and with an up-close view of a dry-docked sailboat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Winding along the road, we came upon our first real
destination: Borough Market, a large year-round market that is a must-see for
any foodie. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Fresh fruits, vegetables, and a bunch of fun guys!<o:p></o:p></div>
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We checked out the Beyond Bread stall for the sweet treats
recommended by another blogger we stumbled upon last night, but then decided
rich doughnuts might not be the best start to the day. What makes for a good
breakfast?<o:p></o:p></div>
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In the adjacent market (maybe also part of Borough Market?)
we found stall upon stall of delicious takeaway options. We settled on Indian -
practically the new English cuisine. (Truly a better breakfast than a doughnut.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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I was about to buy some balsamic vinegar chocolates (tastier
than they sound when I say that out loud) when we were interrupted by drumming
and chanting. Lunar New Year celebrations right in the market!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Brunch in the open-air market immersed us in the experience
but did nothing for the chill gnawing at our bones. Recall that the bulk of our
trip will be in warm climes, and so we relied upon layers of lighter clothes to
handle the London winter weather. Not quite enough. We found a café with
organic coffee and warmed up.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Time was ticking and there was still much to see. Again
facing the chilly morning, we continued with our self-serve tour and stumbled
upon the ruins of the Winchester Palace. Once home to bishops in London on royal
or administrative business, this 12<sup>th</sup> century palace included a
tennis court, bowling alley, and even a prison! The palace remained in use
until the 17<sup>th</sup> century when it was turned into tenements and warehouses.
These ruins, including a glorious rose window, were rediscovered in the 19<sup>th</sup>
century and preserved.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally, Tower Bridge across the Thames and a view of the
Tower of London.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Originally, I had thought we would cross over the bridge and
wander back along the other side. Borough Market had eaten through more time
than I had planned (no regrets, though) so we turned our feet back toward the
hotel. The promenade along the Thames opened into Hay's Galleria which was once
where much of London’s water-borne commerce was unloaded.</div>
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Back again to (the much-less-exciting-than-Tower-Bridge) London Bridge…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2mf5wb76HcUToCF9to-sarzGpjW4z4d677-6LuazUh7D0vzQckpPWZn_UR4AxXaGoWdr2DnYnxHt28oUNZ8r0gLPbstYdtq_zdcoeJEvjzQgJPyZf7xd8RHrag7eoHgM1ReknqSEeLpbY/s1600/20180217_112955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1600" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2mf5wb76HcUToCF9to-sarzGpjW4z4d677-6LuazUh7D0vzQckpPWZn_UR4AxXaGoWdr2DnYnxHt28oUNZ8r0gLPbstYdtq_zdcoeJEvjzQgJPyZf7xd8RHrag7eoHgM1ReknqSEeLpbY/s320/20180217_112955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ePR1VpMMIb9tekcMopiJ-5d07fylAQmwkJoPWc1VbmYqNl8vmMcbh88IXfmtCqukPHCUNEe_3pRnm4bSWwD4nOgRVunOV9g3VgeJdGpuD2N4vCLQsKz49BtNp9B9nXQpcbZCHfDcRdtL/s1600/20180217_112528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ePR1VpMMIb9tekcMopiJ-5d07fylAQmwkJoPWc1VbmYqNl8vmMcbh88IXfmtCqukPHCUNEe_3pRnm4bSWwD4nOgRVunOV9g3VgeJdGpuD2N4vCLQsKz49BtNp9B9nXQpcbZCHfDcRdtL/s320/20180217_112528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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…and back to the hotel. Time enough to grab our stuff and
check out before a(nother) walking tour. The tube would have sufficed to get us
there, but this is London, after all. A double-decker red bus is the way to go
in style!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjpEELhQpnqBKLuikl7Lp6mWD6uFvLBrHcnPJRR_9jLoKjLlshh8-PYnhFUob3JVp6stW-CtsdGI_Pyp1_eSsqBpnKrgXEajJI1ZISuCWosqsWlQT6kU4x4xqWGw1zL_zYUEam8SdN-ja/s1600/20180217_123043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjpEELhQpnqBKLuikl7Lp6mWD6uFvLBrHcnPJRR_9jLoKjLlshh8-PYnhFUob3JVp6stW-CtsdGI_Pyp1_eSsqBpnKrgXEajJI1ZISuCWosqsWlQT6kU4x4xqWGw1zL_zYUEam8SdN-ja/s320/20180217_123043.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This second walking tour – professionally provided by
Sandeman’s – kicked off at Covent Garden Market, where the old Apple Market and
the new Apple Market sit side by side.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOtUv2uDNOrgsyVnieJwCve9fOLED_N0XtsjnjSg_waovn9TohfsSczvOjLi2btJ1a2Uy6h0zF7LvckfZxy6J3cMwQatit0i8QM7D8dPjqPiSw4z_Stt8Kpl7nKYP9F-S5q7zio7DmFalU/s1600/20180217_124617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOtUv2uDNOrgsyVnieJwCve9fOLED_N0XtsjnjSg_waovn9TohfsSczvOjLi2btJ1a2Uy6h0zF7LvckfZxy6J3cMwQatit0i8QM7D8dPjqPiSw4z_Stt8Kpl7nKYP9F-S5q7zio7DmFalU/s320/20180217_124617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Es6B1xokTs3fiIAjH_k3cGdv07J_DB89dgaZyBK1bXKFqW2FvJCOmjMGgVZx3uyz_CTepbcm6AW7PnjzMULJ5VB1uVKw1OMn45uE5cENeJsx57qA9FnO4fR2Zgb4kweAEqUPszCjAo6M/s1600/20180217_124738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Es6B1xokTs3fiIAjH_k3cGdv07J_DB89dgaZyBK1bXKFqW2FvJCOmjMGgVZx3uyz_CTepbcm6AW7PnjzMULJ5VB1uVKw1OMn45uE5cENeJsx57qA9FnO4fR2Zgb4kweAEqUPszCjAo6M/s320/20180217_124738.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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While waiting for the tour to begin, Mindy ticked off
another London “must do”:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwmf93b2UURuQA1bM9JDRb3RejGbW-07md7W31obfksO_w2qMEvHPnAcOQFQDEuBQt4oQaQ0pocw5IpxL7oF70qZHQUaTapbgU0yYpBmg_G9f7hfKW1gjbDfw1lInP-4OsAZZx8hypADX/s1600/20180217_124833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1016" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwmf93b2UURuQA1bM9JDRb3RejGbW-07md7W31obfksO_w2qMEvHPnAcOQFQDEuBQt4oQaQ0pocw5IpxL7oF70qZHQUaTapbgU0yYpBmg_G9f7hfKW1gjbDfw1lInP-4OsAZZx8hypADX/s320/20180217_124833.jpg" width="203" /></a></div>
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First thing we learned on the tour? Covent Garden’s
interesting past. It started as a garden for the local convent (Covent came from
convent) but then after the disenfranchisement of the church, it became one of
the most renowned red-light districts in all of Europe. At the time, the book
detailing the working ladies – each with the “menu” of options available –
outsold the bible! The Victorian era of puritanism cleaned out the professional
companions, and the market became a trading zone for fruits and vegetables.
Recognizing the higher margins on manufactured goods, Covent Garden Market
changed over to jewellery and trinkets; in the last 30 years, individual
artisans have been replaced by Coco Chanel, Gucci, and – of course – Apple.
The market is now little different from Yorkdale Mall, only in a much nicer
setting.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At Trafalgar Square, with its monument to the Lord Admiral
Nelson (incidentally, a big believer in equality among all people – at least
compared to the norms of his era), we learned about the incredible English
defeat of the combined French and Spanish armadas during the Napoleonic War.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYS4vUrQr4HB0TtShP3nanCR-wKFUCmtoL1nCU9oeglWQFyQujoFWW3umagAdj2ac-U9Kw0c3U1Xb7nyx108px66_iTI1caVSMh-71sev0j2gd_7qIY4QzUTCfXVVC6oQV3gm_GVnontK5/s1600/20180217_132936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="869" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYS4vUrQr4HB0TtShP3nanCR-wKFUCmtoL1nCU9oeglWQFyQujoFWW3umagAdj2ac-U9Kw0c3U1Xb7nyx108px66_iTI1caVSMh-71sev0j2gd_7qIY4QzUTCfXVVC6oQV3gm_GVnontK5/s320/20180217_132936.jpg" width="173" /></a></div>
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Notice the “gun-metal” finish on the lion (there are two at the base, though one isn't visible) and the plate of
the plinth? That’s thanks to the brilliant military tactics of Lord Nelson. Seriously.
The initial English navy manoeuvre back in that Napoleonic battle cleared out a
third of the combined French and Spanish fleets without the English losing a
single ship. Napoleon’s navy promptly surrounded, and the English took their
cannons and muskets before sending them home. As no righteous English soldier
would ever use a Spanish or French weapon, they returned the scrap metal to
London and melted it down. To add insult to injury, the centre of London was
then formally moved to this Parisien-style public plaza, a more or less
permanent reminder to the rest of Europe that England once reigned supreme.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We passed through the grand Victoria Memorial gates and into
the royal neighbourhood – where the road is painted red to avoid the
inconvenience of having to roll out a red carpet every time the monarch is in
town. The gate originally housed offices for the navy, hence the nautical
themes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSVYYTyiuSXjcv9MlyT_gNWhkv-4JosLLxn961JL4bUbSpWmKSshqMdFE9XbQQbbDCxyuIOcMgo0aCIuBQgqqMwMckaGgEPQbnzJ-M_EZLd1Fi35CDg8At_hNCA2KRPXbJe5EDF5aYAME/s1600/20180217_134423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSVYYTyiuSXjcv9MlyT_gNWhkv-4JosLLxn961JL4bUbSpWmKSshqMdFE9XbQQbbDCxyuIOcMgo0aCIuBQgqqMwMckaGgEPQbnzJ-M_EZLd1Fi35CDg8At_hNCA2KRPXbJe5EDF5aYAME/s320/20180217_134423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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St. James Palace – nestled behind what was the German
embassy in the 1930s – lacks the glamour of Buckingham and other palaces, but
it is keystone institution in England’s political history as the physical
representation of the royal court after private armies ceased to be the measure
of noble power. (Clever man King Henry the VII used his private army to seize
power from King Richard, then promptly outlawed such armies to avoid similar
threats to himself.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Mrwbc7sMGyNHC971Otnul9wk5cjqVsNTe9TdTlCvW3tiwqm8y2NEGyqEhYIL01AHZXurvBgXEiPuFYT5luS-BtdhRsz3dYAF1FsaDPBdfa_7FhcMAOyv-jnjxfv5Ugkk_oyLVvid0hFK/s1600/20180217_140959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Mrwbc7sMGyNHC971Otnul9wk5cjqVsNTe9TdTlCvW3tiwqm8y2NEGyqEhYIL01AHZXurvBgXEiPuFYT5luS-BtdhRsz3dYAF1FsaDPBdfa_7FhcMAOyv-jnjxfv5Ugkk_oyLVvid0hFK/s320/20180217_140959.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Buckingham Palace was originally built to be the home of the
Duke of Buckingham. Sadly for his heirs, the Duke was greatly in debt to the
King when Buckingham House was built, and the King rather fancied this
beautiful new house. As a courtesy, the royal family arranged a compromise,
wherein the Duke of Buckingham would be permitted to live in the house until he
died, at which point he would “generously” bequeath Buckingham House to the
King. It became Buckingham Palace, and remains the residence of the monarch.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidCCfzGuG0Skh1vqH-t-nxv8iXFmvrY_PV4nqEnIwmc3jDQvYMHJhpzwql6fQZldSaO-H9ocdWODDrIUwGTdg29QUdkX7_gTyy6i5SSXRuhyAuWr3XMMulfhj_EdplQUg-zAaHuDt5L3Ql/s1600/20180217_144349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidCCfzGuG0Skh1vqH-t-nxv8iXFmvrY_PV4nqEnIwmc3jDQvYMHJhpzwql6fQZldSaO-H9ocdWODDrIUwGTdg29QUdkX7_gTyy6i5SSXRuhyAuWr3XMMulfhj_EdplQUg-zAaHuDt5L3Ql/s320/20180217_144349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wX5W0iDqbUHbAD618y0D2dldDI4B4VTOw0mfQ20psJbPK3YGf_7IzBSSgCpbCp8oASpN3eWJTVdAr3D9OrcFi-hw_RC8DXcPUPudgiKViJoDNAIUpgyg_40LIKnYqQsMla3GK59VO59G/s1600/20180217_144549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wX5W0iDqbUHbAD618y0D2dldDI4B4VTOw0mfQ20psJbPK3YGf_7IzBSSgCpbCp8oASpN3eWJTVdAr3D9OrcFi-hw_RC8DXcPUPudgiKViJoDNAIUpgyg_40LIKnYqQsMla3GK59VO59G/s320/20180217_144549.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The reigning monarch Elizabeth is not content to merely wave
to her subjects from the balcony, however. (That balcony – permitting a
connection between the Queen and her people – is credited as part of the reason
the English royal family enjoyed an 89% approval rating among the English in
the last national survey on such matters.) Queen Elizabeth has dabbled in the
film industry, starring as herself in a fictional film about Queen Elizabeth
going to watch the Olympics under the protection of 007. Queen and Bond Girl!<o:p></o:p></div>
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The garden stretching out in front of Buckingham has always
been open to the public. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6FrxLdEFf81_dzzQ9H8qlPf6fOoI8QpwUEpf1hWV3hfe-lUvwjBAz-Ey41mw-YxGS2cwgSc51VO_h3KJKD0rI20bIeskQikh1cqLVp6Wsupkuo2tgcwdEXcyvlpj3D5kgT94y6GlAL0Ne/s1600/20180217_144357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6FrxLdEFf81_dzzQ9H8qlPf6fOoI8QpwUEpf1hWV3hfe-lUvwjBAz-Ey41mw-YxGS2cwgSc51VO_h3KJKD0rI20bIeskQikh1cqLVp6Wsupkuo2tgcwdEXcyvlpj3D5kgT94y6GlAL0Ne/s320/20180217_144357.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Historically, municipal police could not enforce the
law on royal grounds, and so the park became the host of all manner of vices.
Buckingham Palace looked out at a veritable orgy of the common people.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The tour wrapped up in front of Big Ben, the Houses of
Parliament, and Westminster Abbey.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfkTjsUgGLZQtpRAvK_t6InnA2Ye9ggwcxE0Olw2edfzWr4rt7BSuSc1jHC3m-zyEVOCZcccocIZWvq-MWN3tojfdTC_MLER2vyyc2ocTImb7E8q_ZAis7Pf8VdUPptW8uwHUPhpssgVmR/s1600/20180217_152240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfkTjsUgGLZQtpRAvK_t6InnA2Ye9ggwcxE0Olw2edfzWr4rt7BSuSc1jHC3m-zyEVOCZcccocIZWvq-MWN3tojfdTC_MLER2vyyc2ocTImb7E8q_ZAis7Pf8VdUPptW8uwHUPhpssgVmR/s320/20180217_152240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYhq-jscn1bTKJ1w2G8y5et6x5QFe0XmmWo4yWl7TJPcHrQnjgODptGbEfZ9Qnc_tTlEzWt_J-p87DMUmwgz1fFGHu2pftfEQDo0za5P9F_ijANYHH5eVMiqYB4XnikehZICAbfVDxXW_/s1600/20180217_152756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYhq-jscn1bTKJ1w2G8y5et6x5QFe0XmmWo4yWl7TJPcHrQnjgODptGbEfZ9Qnc_tTlEzWt_J-p87DMUmwgz1fFGHu2pftfEQDo0za5P9F_ijANYHH5eVMiqYB4XnikehZICAbfVDxXW_/s320/20180217_152756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For the first time in its history, Big Ben is undergoing
renovations. It was starting to take after the Tower of Pisa as Big Ben slowly
sank on one side into the soft bank of the Thames. We didn’t (really) see Big
Ben, but we did see a rare site that won’t be seen again for at least 150 years
– Big Ben surrounded by scaffolding. Hooray?<o:p></o:p></div>
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At least Westminster Abbey – the site of all coronations
since William the Bastard became William the Conqueror, King of England – was
visible. (That is, aside from the extreme glare of the setting sun that accounts for the lack of Westminster Abbey photo here.) Did you know that the English monarch must request permission from the
Mayor of London prior to entering the city? A compromise reached between the conquering
William and the economically powerful city of London, back in the day. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The lawn in front of parliament is informally designated for
protests and public messaging. After a 5-year occupation by protesters in the
wake of the (second) Iraq war, this public space no longer permits such
“occupation” style protests. Today, it was some environmentalists and people
seeking fair treatment for immigrants.<o:p></o:p></div>
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True to our style of aggressive traveling, the tour finished
just in time to rush back to the hotel for our baggage, and then a return to
Heathrow for our flight to Lisbon. <o:p></o:p></div>
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At the aeroport, our customs officer noted that we had a
one-way ticket to Portugal. Citizens from Canada, Australia, and New Zealand
are required to show a departure ticket before heading in to Portugal. I guess
this is a Portuguese requirement, as our customs officer was satisfied simply
by looking at the ticket confirmation in my email (on my phone). I didn’t even
have to send him a screenshot.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Settling in for the night, we are in a new hotel, a new
city, and a new country. This place might be the Lisbon airport’s equivalent of
a Doubletree.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpVuiJ_bwW4ok00jdmCGB8hRtsEglzVCILdlJXBgviiIVpBU4h_w1ATYxTAaZyMu7u7-xx09GL_ADLY3nJapHNyGfd8kXcUNHycEVJF5oR-mWMCSvmCe-qGHiH25CUPD3LflqmaoPvaWK/s1600/20180217_225626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpVuiJ_bwW4ok00jdmCGB8hRtsEglzVCILdlJXBgviiIVpBU4h_w1ATYxTAaZyMu7u7-xx09GL_ADLY3nJapHNyGfd8kXcUNHycEVJF5oR-mWMCSvmCe-qGHiH25CUPD3LflqmaoPvaWK/s320/20180217_225626.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-82380821539924332622018-02-16T10:48:00.000-08:002018-02-17T11:04:33.835-08:00Human Smuggling<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I tell ya, we got a great discount on this trip. Three people took the flight, three people, stayed at the hotel, three people ate at restaurants and took tours, and we consistently got a 1/3 discount! We just kept the third safely hidden inside Mindy's tummy, and smuggled it with us everywhere we went...<div>
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You can time flights from Toronto to England such that you leave in the evening and arrive in the morning - saving a night's hotel. With Mindy being pregnant and more easily tired than usual, we did the opposite: we flew out of Toronto in the morning and arrived in London in the evening. Mindy slept like a baby on the plane (so, presumably, did the baby) and when we arrived in London we went to the hotel and promptly fell asleep. (This may be Mindy's favourite day of traveling ever - at least in terms of sleep!)</div>
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As we made our way to the plane in Toronto, I was hoping our luggage and catering was already loaded:</div>
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Took the corner a little fast?</div>
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The flight was blissfully uneventful (generally desirable for a flight). About the only noteworthy thing was my feeling of cultural inferiority as Mindy watched the Zookeeper's Wife, about the real-life sacrifices made by a Polish couple to save hundreds of lives in World War Two...while I watched Boss Baby.</div>
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Then we were in England! We found our way through the tube to Central London and to our hotel, then headed out for a late (by English time) dinner at this fantastic Turkish restaurant we found around the corner from our restaurant! Dressed for the plane, we were seriously under-dressed for this place, but they didn't seem to mind as they sat us in plain view of the door. Guess they don't get a lot of customers in at 11pm. </div>
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Tomorrow will be a busy day with our very own walking tour (designed by us....therefore a little light on historic context) and then a professional walking tour with Sandeman's in the afternoon.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-50922989874881172262017-09-09T10:40:00.001-07:002017-09-10T13:36:39.456-07:00New Age Spiritualism to a Tribute to Capitalism<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sleep is for sissies, so Mindy and I were up with the sun this morning. Our last morning in Sedona, we wanted time for a hike through the Fay Canyon. This short trail is known for being busy, so the early start would also help reduce the crowds. The empty parking lot at the trail head was a good start! This sign; however, was a little unnerving when we had just arranged to have the place to ourselves...<br />
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Deserts would have little bears, right?<br />
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The pretty trail cut through the wooded centre of the canyon with red rock cliffs rising on both sides.<br />
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We saw toads, hares and birds, but no bear. (A mix of disappointment and relief.) The hummingbirds are loud enough here that you might think you're hearing a bear!<br />
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At the end of the maintained trail, we dodged large white flowers - looking like someone's garden - and up boulders to the Fay Arch.<br />
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The hike along the valley floor was pretty, but the sights from up high made this worth getting out of bed!<br />
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The echo was fantastic, so Mindy and I entertained ourselves talking to ourselves. Yes, ourselves. Sitting beside each other.<br />
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Though we were heading back to the hotel for breakfast, we stopped at Local Juicery for a delicious and healthy start to the day. Not "a local juice store", but a store called Local Juicery.<br />
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After some more Tarahumara burritos, we packed up and headed out to the Fiesta Tlaquepaque in the Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village.<br />
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The fiesta was a little disappointing, really. Aside from the stage, this festival seemed more focused on bringing people in to the existing shops throughout the Arts and Crafts Village. While some shops were pleasing to walk through, nothing much appealed to us. Except the Navajo rugs - I would have loved to bring one of those, home. Problem being, even if I was going to spend $14,000 on an area rug, I wouldn't know what to do with it. Do you put it on the floor and risk it getting dirty? Do you put it on the wall? I chose to put it back on the rack in the store and walk out empty handed.<br />
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Back in the car, we put the peaceful beauty of Sedona behind us and began the trek down to Scottsdale. Elevation drops quickly and soon red rocks were replaced by Saguaro cacti. Also, we saw a ramshackle van in a parking lot with a big sign "$7 jeans". I guess those "fell off the back of a truck"? Soon enough, we were pulling up to the entrance of the luxurious Fairmont Princess resort.<br />
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We had aggressive plans of getting out for a hike or run in the desert this afternoon, but by the time we had unpacked and settled in after the drive and busy morning, we had limited time before a reasonable dinner time. I wanted a workout of some sort, so I accepted the irony of heading to the desert in order to swim.<br />
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Dinner was at the four diamond restaurant at the resort. The service was stellar, the food marvelous, and the sommelier most impressive. This guy is 36 years old and is one of ~600 advanced sommelier in the world (2 in Arizona). He is taking his master sommelier exam in autumn, and if he is successful, he will be one of only ~300 in the world. He knows his stuff! I guess he had a bit of time, or he was entertained by our ignorance of and interest in wine. After talking to us about some of the very impressive wines on the list...<br />
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...I asked him whether someone with my undeveloped palate would be able to appreciate a wine of that calibre. He stepped away from the table and brought back a small glass of wine for me. "Try that, and I'll be back." It was interesting. Like three different glasses of wine: the nose was sour, the first flavour very light and thin, and if I let it sit on my tongue it developed a lot of punch. I didn't really like it. It was a $300+ bottle of French Bordeaux. Um....I mean... I loved it(?)<br />
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We had a magical walk back to the room through the night-time resort, then off to bed.<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-49058010990337570192017-09-08T22:39:00.001-07:002017-09-09T10:38:34.204-07:00The Meaning of Life<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I started the day with some office time. Though I am on vacation, I didn't really mind...<br />
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Once Mindy got up, she put an end to that, anyway. Off to breakfast! This really is the perfect hotel for us, when it serves Tarahumara burritos! (The Tarahumara are a tribe that originally settled in the Copper Canyons in Mexico, and were the subject of one of my favourite books: Born to Run.)<br />
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Well fed, we set out on another day of adventures. We started our day with a tour of the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a small church built into one of the most awe-inspiring landscapes. The chapel was designed by one of Frank Lloyd Wright's students (that should score me some points with Garry!).<br />
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The pedestal on which the chapel stands makes full use of Mother Nature's backdrop!<br />
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Knowing how some of the mega-churches operate here in the USA, I can't help but be a little cynical. As I looked out from the walkway leading to this church, I couldn't help but wonder if the mega-house across the road belonged to the priest of this chapel<br />
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That's probably not fair of me, though. There are a number of estate homes in Sedona, and besides, this chapel isn't big enough to be a mega-church.<br />
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Refreshed in spirit (or not), we set forth to the The Crack; according to the images on Google, this hike on Bell Trail would lead us to a beautiful pool in Wet Beaver Creek. Unfortunately, we seem to have made a common wrong turn:<br />
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We probably should have just turned around and gone to the trail head. Instead, we found an area to park and decided we would fine our way along the creek (on the wrong side). Things started promising, as we found a pretty path that ran parallel to the water.<br />
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And then...it wasn't so clear. The path would suddenly end in a thicket of spiny bushes, or it would wind back on itself, and we made our way to the creek itself to scramble over the rocks at the edge. It's only....4 miles to The Crack...<br />
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Right or wrong, our "scenic route" offered cool shade under the canopy of trees at the water.<br />
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We crossed over the creek and back again, finding bits of overgrown trail that would carry us along a hundred metres, or a hundred feet, before fading away into the undergrowth. I was startled by a 3-foot long snake slithering through the grasses, and at one point we were deafened by what must have been thousands of grasshoppers or crickets chirping at us from the banks on both sides and the trees towering above.<br />
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At times, when the shrieking bugs relented, we heard faint voices off to our left. Following them, eventually we saw people treading the Bell Trail. We found the proper route!<br />
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Mindy doesn't walk as fast as I do, so she would run ahead and then wait for me. Honestly. She wasn't trying to lose me in the wilderness. I think...<br />
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The flat trail along the creek began to climb sharply up a red rock "mountain" (small mountain), and the rough rocks in the hot sun worked our tired legs.<br />
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Crazy to think that this path was established to herd cattle from one end of the canyon to the other - and that it's still used for this to this day!<br />
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We would occasionally come across other hikers doing the return route; they confirmed that the work would be well worth it! I could tell Mindy's enthusiasm was starting to wane as we climbed higher and higher around the side of the mountain, and then suddenly we were there!<br />
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First order of business:<br />
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A stunning swimming hole where the creek cut a gorge through the rocky riverbed. Clear, refreshing water and - being early in the day - the place was largely to ourselves.<br />
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We found a sunny rock to sit and dry ourselves as we ate our picnic...<br />
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...until we noticed that our beautiful vista was dotted with other people's garbage. What ignorance. :( So I did a little "tidying up" for the next people to enjoy.<br />
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Eventually, knowing that we had a long hike back and more to explore this afternoon, we pulled ourselves away from the serenity of the Crack at Wet Beaver Creek and started the expedition back to the car. More sights on the way back.<br />
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Despite the heat, it felt faster - we were going downhill for the first couple of kilometres. This time, we took the proper path all the way back to the trail head, and then I ran the mile to the car. We were both fatigued from the heat, the sun, and the 13km hike, but this town seems to specialize in liquid energy:<br />
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Refreshed, we drove to the Amitabha Stupa & Peace Park, a sprawling homage to Buddhism set against a backdrop of red rock cliffs. <br />
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The Stupa is built upon one of Sedona's energy vortexes - where the earth's energy concentrates into healing power (or so they say). I didn't feel the energy the way I do the liquid kind, but, like when I walked into the chapel this morning, I understand how people find peace in such places.<br />
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Whether you believe in energy vortexes or not, Sedona is a magical place. What other small town can successfully take on the "golden" arches?<br />
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Dinner was at the Elote Cafe, a happening place specializing in Mexican and Southwestern American cuisine. The 40-minute wait for a table flew by as we sipped out drinks overlooking the pool and grounds of the adjacent hotel, chatting with two loquacious Texan women who were well into their bevvies. <br />
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Once seated at our table for dinner, Mindy pointed out the table of (different) women sitting next to us - they had been at the adjacent table at Mariposa last night! As they were getting up to leave, I interrupted and confirmed that we had seen them last night. They laughed, complimented us on our "foodie" nature, and jokingly said "I guess we'll see you tomorrow night in Scottsdale?" Um, yes. We will. They aren't staying at the Fairmont - we confirmed.<br />
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So where does one find the meaning of life? Is it an architectural marvel of a Christian church? A peaceful Buddhist sanctuary? Some Gaian philosophy that worships the marvels of nature? Or simply the Crack of a Wet Beaver?</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-37502796801735039322017-09-07T19:19:00.000-07:002017-09-08T22:37:21.868-07:00From Red Eyes to Red Rocks<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I know, a 7am flight does not normally count as a red-eye; however, the new direction from Pearson airport is to show up 3 HOURS before a flight to the US earlier than 10am, so we woke up at 3am this morning. That's early! My eyes may have been a little red rimmed. It was only a little frustrating that we made it through to our gate with over an hour to spare.<br />
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I love small world stories, and we had one when we bumped into Jocelyn from the Ajax Running Free getting on the same flight as us, sitting in the same row! At Chicago, we transferred to separate connectors, and we were onward to Arizona....sleepy.<br />
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When booking our rental car, we had a little fun with the "special special" car option - a mystery when you book it. Our mystery car was - drum roll, please - a Kia Forte! Wow! A standard four-door sedan! In black, too! Oh well, it got us safely to our first destination, necessary to take the edge off the early wake-up call.<br />
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False enthusiasm for the car was soon replaced by real enthusiasm as the highway north from Phoenix offered us views of the scenic Arizona skyline:<br />
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Driving through Cottonwood (we had debated staying there, and happily drove right through to Sedona instead), I was so excited about Red Rock Country just around the corner. Southwest Inn at Sedona upgraded our room so that we'd have a view of one of the many mountain ranges dotting the landscape:<br />
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Dropping our stuff, we headed out for the first hike of the trip up Cathedral Rock.<br />
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A rugged, breathtaking climb at times, my legs started going wobbly. (We hadn't eaten in a while and hadn't slept much last night, so there were probably a few contributing factors...)<br />
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So worth it for the incredible views at the top!<br />
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I hate to admit it, but I am glad Mindy bought us a "selfie stick".<br />
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We followed the "path less traveled" on the wall down (aka, we inadvertently wandered off the path) but were rewarded with more beautiful sights:<br />
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There was some serious climbing. Honest...</div>
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Hungry and tired, we ate our fill of delicious food at the magical Mariposa Grill. I can't recommend this place enough.<br />
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22 hours after we got up in Ajax, we crawled into bed.</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-90230059808455842372017-03-07T15:30:00.000-08:002017-04-09T18:39:58.229-07:00Concepcion on a Honeymoon (Not Conception)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I woke up this morning to the sound of seagulls calling out to one another. Then came the smell of smoggy air - a smell I haven't experienced since being in the industrial city of Xi'an, China. That heavy, gritty air that feels smokey as it enters your body. We had heard that pollution can be bad in Santiago as it's in a valley, but that's only in winter. For me, Concepcion's air was the reminder that we are in an industrial belt of a developing country.<br />
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It was probably good, in a way, that this is where we are ending our trip - with little desire to stay and explore the city more. We partook of the extensive breakfast at the hotel (included, as it always seems to be in this part of the world), and prepared for the long journey home. Once packed, we booked our last illegal Uber for a while and headed to the airport (with one of us sitting in the front seat, of course!).<br />
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Originally I thought we should be at the airport three hours early, but then Mindy reminded me that this first leg of our journey was a domestic flight, and we only needed to be there two hours early. Good thing!<br />
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We got to a nearly deserted airport and strolled right up to the counter to check in. Earlier, we had tried to drop this first leg of the flight - catching our connector out of Santiago (and missing out on Concepcion!). Delta airlines (and all the online research I did) told us that if we didn't show up for the first leg, our whole flight would be cancelled. That memory was firmly in mind when the attendant at the Concepcion airport (who luckily spoke English very well) informed us that she couldn't even check us in for our flight out of Santiago; we'd have to do that upon landing after picking up our luggage and dragging it through the airport. Not impressed at all.<br />
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Upon landing in Santiago - despite being assured by airport staff that we didn't need to retrieve our luggage (I had a hard time clarifying for them that the luggage wasn't tagged to be passed through) - we made our way to the Delta check-in desk to find that it was closed. And wouldn't open for another three hours. The Santiago airport is not a very compelling place to spend an afternoon, so we walked across the street to a hotel and took up residence in their restaurant lounge. We ordered tasty food and drinks, and had access to clean washrooms while we waited for this next leg of our trek home.<br />
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Back in the airport, we were looking for interesting races to tackle this year. The American couple sitting across from us interrupted at one point, apologising for eavesdropping, to ask us about racing, as they do a lot of adventure racing. As we got chatting with them, another couple wandered over to say that they, too, were runners, and we swapped stories with them as well. Another example of running bringing people together!<br />
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Our flight was uneventful, and after a brief stopover in Atlanta, we were finally back in Toronto on a Wednesday morning. Mindy's mom picked us up at the airport to drive us home, and then I headed into work. Let's see how things are after a couple weeks away!</div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-30845958590490204592017-03-06T15:30:00.000-08:002017-04-09T18:39:51.547-07:00Wait for (e)ME!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Do you recall the first Home Alone movie - the scene where the family was racing through the airport with luggage flying everywhere, boarding the plane practically as it pulled away from the gates? That was Mindy and me this morning, only our "plane" was a bus, and we weren't heading to Paris, France.<br />
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We left De Blasis B and B this morning with what we thought was plenty of time to catch the bus...except we went to the wrong bus station. (A miscommunication with our hosts.) traffic was worse than I had expected, and so time was a little tight - we had about 10 minutes until the bus' departure time to exchange our vouchers for tickets and load our bags. I was a little tense. Then I asked someone to direct me to the desk for EME buses....."Not here," he said. "That's at the other bus station." This other station was a mile away!!!<br />
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We raced back out to the street and flagged down the first cab we saw. "The other station. As fast as you can go." I stammered in my broken Spanish. He asked for money up front and I offered him 3,000 Chilean pesos (the veritable "fortune" of $6 Canadian). Given that this was about twice what the cab would have cost, he seemed highly motivated. Until - as far as I could tell from my map app on my phone - he turned down the wrong street and took us the long way around. My heart sank. I tried calling the bus company, but no answer. (Had they answered, it might not have helped with my limited handle on the language.) My stressed brain was trying to threaten me with thoughts about missing our flight home tomorrow as I watched the minutes tick by. The other part of my brain reminded me that - although we had spent the money on first class bus tickets - there were more (not as nice) buses that we could take later today. It would only be a waste of money...<br />
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Around the time that our bus was scheduled to leave, the cabby pulled over and pointed us down a one-way (opposite way) street toward the bus station. He had taken the fastest possible route, provided we could run the last bit. Mindy took off to find the bus while I trailed behind with two big suitcases. I watched her cross the street and followed her into the terminal. She was coming back out as I entered, telling me that we had to go to the other part of the terminal across the street. What terrible luck!! Mindy was off again with me following as quickly as I could. I got into the bus station and....I couldn't see her anywhere. Oh jeez!<br />
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I guessed that she might have gone down the first hallway, and so I turned. I found the EME bus counter and pleaded my case. The representative sprang to action, radioing the bus and telling me to follow her quickly. "Where is your wife?" she asked. I looked helpless. "I don't know." We arrived at the now empty platform for our bus as I looked around wildly for Mindy. Another passenger, waiting for a different bus, asked me if I was looking for my wife, and gestured down another passageway. The EME staff member and I raced through there to see Mindy walking with another EME representative toward the bus that had already left the station. The group of us raced across the parking lot and down the street to where the bus was lurching to the side of the road. We made it!!<br />
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The staff at EME were so kind and helpful, and we found our way to our premium seats - as nice as first class on an airplane. (They even provided snacks and drinks, included in the price of the ticket!)<br />
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Santiago is set between two mountain ranges - the Andes and the Cordillera, so for the first while, our view from the bus was of mountains on either side, with the landscape in between showing the dry semi-desert that characterises the wine regions. As we proceeded south, the mountains receded and the terrain became more lush; we could have been driving through Ontario!</div>
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Finally, we arrived in the city of Concepcion, and (discreetly) took an Uber from the bus station to our hotel.</div>
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Dressed in running clothes to explore the city, our first discovery was that garbage collection is by horse and cart!</div>
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We made our way along one of Concepcion's urban parks - which we were assured is safe...in daylight. For my part, stick a palm tree in the picture and it looks stunning to me!</div>
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Concepcion is set along a major river that affords some picturesque views.</div>
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(If you look out the opposite direction, you see a lot of industry...)</div>
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Running (quite literally) out of things to see in Concepcion, we detoured on the way home to check out the main square, full of people (who - with good reason - stared at us in our running clothes).</div>
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According to Trip Advisor, Lo Que Mas Quiero is the top restaurant in Concepcion. We tried to make a reservation before we left Santiago, but were assured that on a Monday night it wouldn't be a problem. We then tried to make a reservation from our hotel but no-one answered the phone. (We later learned that they close between lunch and dinner.) We took a chance and just showed up. </div>
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Surprisingly, the restaurant manager speaks English fluently. This made it much easier for us to plead our case for a table and, after waiting about 20 minutes, being seated. While we were waiting, the manager asked if we wanted to go for a walk and come back. We asked whether there was anywhere nice nearby...she thought for a moment, then shook her head. "I wouldn't recommend you go out around here at this time of night." The manager seemed perplexed why Concepcion had made our honeymoon agenda; rather than explain the attempt to change our flight, we just brushed it off highlighting the cool things nearby (not in Concepcion) there were to see. As it turned out, this restaurant may have been the best thing about our jaunt to Concepcion!</div>
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With full stomachs and tired feet, we made our way back to the hotel for the night.<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-55399940803460834692017-03-05T18:59:00.000-08:002017-04-09T18:39:41.843-07:00Not Another Tour (please)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I was really angling for a tour into the mountains today. Maybe horseback riding and checking out some of the traditional "cowboys" who live in the rugged Andes. Maybe hiking in to check out some natural hot springs! Instead, Mindy suggested the most logical option. "Why don't we just enjoy our last day in Santiago? Sleep in, walk around the markets, eat at a nice place for dinner?"<br />
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Um...yeah. That made a lot of sense!<br />
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We ran back up San Cristobal hill (this time, without company) and then wandered through the streets of Santiago.<br />
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In the Bellavista neighbourhood, we saw some of the most impressive panhandling I have ever seen! Even I gave them some money.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzYtnufXBP6c7IZFx4qWc4ySJSyqchpBtW2hXOir8t41qzpKWGDSyfDDSl9JYhWBGAD0je7ig98RRZo6YDu1g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Being our last day in Santiago, I went for the traditional Chilean drink/snack - sweet peach juice with wheat berries, corn and an apricot.</div>
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It was interesting.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-65708474944254295372017-03-04T18:58:00.000-08:002017-04-09T18:27:07.969-07:00Drunk Driving (on a bike)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Back in Santiago the first time, we had tried to take a bike through the old Cousino Macul vineyard - an active vineyard right in Santiago, surrounded by the sprawling city. As that didn't work out (somehow we ended up on a Portuguese tour instead), we were eager to sign up for this tour of biking and drinking wine!<br />
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We arrived at the Cousino Macul vineyard and found a row of green bicycles lined up, each with a basket holding a wine glass and bottle of water.<br />
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We rode into the vineyard with our tour guide and another couple who were there for the tour, stopping periodically to enjoy the scenery, learn about the grapes and the wine, and sample!<br />
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With a few tasters in us and the vineyards well explored, we retreated to the bodegas ("buildings") where the wine-making magic happens. The naturally cool and dark rooms have thick timber doors and high roofs to maintain a constant temperature and encourage fermentation.</div>
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(At least, that's how they used to do it. Now they use temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, but those pictures just aren't that romantic.)</div>
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The cellars below the tank rooms house the wine in casks.</div>
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At the far end of the cellars, behind lock and key, sits the private collection of the Cousino family. Caked in dust, some of the rarest and most expensive wine in the world spoils there every year due to not being consumed. What a travesty!</div>
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Once done at the wine cellars, we took a table in the Cousino Macul courtyard for the final tastings. In honour of our honeymoon, our guide brought out the premium wines offered by Cousino Macul! Before we left, we made sure to stock up on more Cousino Macul wine to remember this day back home in Ajax.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-8320173426437723032017-03-03T18:55:00.000-08:002017-04-09T14:10:59.336-07:00Beach Day!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Our last day in La Serena - we decided not to join the Elqui Runners tomorrow morning - and so we had great plans to enjoy a day at the beach! Or a morning. Turned out that by the time we got ourselves out of bed, gorged on breakfast and packed our bags, we had about an hour at the beach. It was fun to play in the waves for an hour, anyway!<br />
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In Europe, Mindy's introduction to bus travel was a noisy and smelly overnight bus with some loud and drunk neighbours and the reek of the driver's cigarettes. I guess there's one every trip! We had limited options for our bus drive back to Santiago, and in retrospect I would say the one we took was the wrong choice. It was filthy! The seat-backs were short and uncomfortable for my six-foot frame. (I have more sympathy for my 6'5" brothers on airplanes now.) The washroom, which thankfully I didn't have to use but Mindy did, was foul. Ugh! Hours later, once we had grown accustomed to this new standard of travel, I was entertained when a woman boarded the bus at one stop to see drinks and pastries to the passengers, and then disembarked an hour later down the road. I suppose she will attempt to market her goods on another bus heading the opposite direction for a lift back.<br />
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Of course I would have preferred a cleaner, better quality bus. Then again, it's useful, I think, to see how much of the world lives. Besides, as Mindy and I talked about it, this was training for travel to other parts of the world which are even dirtier, like India!<br />
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Finally back in Santiago, we made our way to our eclectic guesthouse for the night. Owned by an artist and decorated with her productions, this bed and breakfast had a certain bohemian feel, enhanced by the friendly hosts (who tried to insist that we either sit down and have a drink with them, or that they would join us going out for dinner). Maybe it was just the relief of being off that bus, but I was immediately hooked!<br />
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...and only temporarily so. Despite the cool artwork on the walls, our stuffy room's small, sagging, single beds and awkward bathroom (with no proper door) was not enhanced by the noisy guests smoking and talking just outside. We opted not to have our guests join us for dinner, and found a lively street for dinner.<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-59632261361651829692017-03-02T18:57:00.000-08:002017-04-09T14:10:46.809-07:00Pisco Tour!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The area around La Serena is really known for two things: penguins and wildlife around the Isla Damas sanctuary, and the beautiful Elqui Valley. As it turned out, it was our good fortune that we took the penguin tour yesterday as the tour was cancelled today due to rough weather at the coast! (This bad weather was localised, and had no effect on us as we headed north and in-land to the valley.)<br />
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Of course, we started again with a long bus ride; this time our first destination was a papaya plantation!<br />
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Well, a papaya store, anyway, with one sad looking plant out front. When booking the tour, we had been warned about getting too excited about this first stop. Inside the store, we tasted papaya jam and papaya honey - with assurances that the fruit was all locally sourced Though we couldn't taste it, Mindy and I also were tempted by a locally-made cherry-based liqueur: Guindao.<br />
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A small store, so a brief visit. We carried on to the Puclaro dam to see an unlikely lake in the middle of the desert.<br />
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The Elqui Valley is so arid that the vineyards don't even have to use anti-fungals on their grapes (making South American wine more environmentally-friendly than I realised). In fact, part of the reason grapes grow so well here is that grapevines prefer dry, rocky, marginal soil.<br />
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However, this area wouldn't be so productive if it relied entirely on the less than 3 inches of rainfall each year, and so the Puclaro dam was built to take advantage of the massive rains every seven years.<br />
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This is the beginning of the seven-year dry cycle, and so the lake is at it's most impressive, with cacti down the mountainside meeting the edge of the water, and a thick belt of green down the middle of the valley below.<br />
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We watched fish leaping out to catch insects at the surface, and even saw someone water-skiing on this water reservoir! As the Andes become a less reliable water source (melting ice caps) and weather patterns become less reliable, the fragile Elqui ecosystem will be among the first to suffer.<br />
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Walking back to the car, we stopped at one of the many market stalls to buy a copao fruit from the copao cacti that were everywhere. (The copao look vaguely like the exceptionally slow-growing saguaro cacti in the Arizona desert, and so I was confused how there could be so many! Turns out it's a different plant.) This tasty fruit was reminiscent of a sour kiwi, and so we bought another for later (which ultimately got squished in our bag and thrown out).<br />
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Next on the agenda was the town of Vicuna - the "busy metropolitan centre" of the sleepy Elqui Valley. The designated tour stop at this point was the museum to Gabriel Mistral, Chilean poet and diplomat, but as all the explanations and recorded tours were in Spanish, Mindy and I spent more time wandering around the main square; as usual, I was drawn to the main church to see what devout Catholicism had stationed here.<br />
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Finally, the namesake of the tour: a Pisco vineyard and production centre. Akin to whiskey, pisco can be made the easy and cheap way for a harsher blend, or in a careful and controlled manner for a premium product. The Aba Pisquera is one of the top pisco vineyards in the region, making a craft pisco according to the most stringent standards. Economic realities being what they are, this means that Aba Pisquera pisco doesn't sell much product in Chile, opting instead for the more lucrative export market. (Canada is one of the main importers of this pisco, though not the LCBO in Ontario.)<br />
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We wandered the stunning vineyard with mountain views in the background before retreating to the naturally cool fermentation rooms where giant casks house the developing product.<br />
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Finally, the tasting room to try the standard, premium, and smoked pisco on offer. If this is a premium, smooth version of pisco, I can only imagine what the cheap stuff is like! A miniature shot hits hard! Nonetheless, we bought a bottle for pisco sours in the summer in Ajax. (One of many things I love about travelling is collecting an assortment of regional liquors and liqueurs. This Pisco joins the Guindao from the papaya store and Grappamiel from Uruguay.)<br />
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Back to the town of Vicuna for lunch, we had some fantastic traditional Chilean food - for us vegetarians, it was another corn dish. (I had ceviche and fried fish yesterday, but this baked corn dish was compelling.) We wandered around Vicuna a little more after our meal, but this small town had little to offer beyond the main square, a few market stalls, and another church.<br />
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We also noted that, here in the desert, they watered the pavement as much as the grass...<br />
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On the way home, we stopped at a final look out to appreciate the incredible beauty of the Elqui Valley (fittingly paired with my beautiful wife).<br />
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Back in La Serena, Mindy and I went for another run along the beach with a pack of wild dogs in tow. We came upon the Club Elqui runners and made tentative plans to join them for a workout on Saturday morning - if we are still in La Serena. Maybe we'd find some more incredible sights and people on another group run?<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-24161474319187242172017-03-01T13:08:00.000-08:002017-04-08T18:15:10.929-07:00Penguins!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Perhaps more than anything else on this trip, Mindy wanted to see penguins! When we thought we'd make it to the southern tip of the continent, this seemed an easy win, but then we discovered just how long Chile is from north to south.<br />
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Happily for us, there is also a colony of penguins in a nature reserve near La Serena - hence our trek up north yesterday.<br />
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As you might imagine, we were a little apprehensive about our Ecoturismo tour this morning - would the guide speak English, or Portuguese? When Paola, our guide, retrieved us from the hotel lobby, the tension diminished. Excellent English, and an engaging personality. (A proper tour bus, rather than a van, too!) We set out toward Isla Damas - the island where the penguin colony lives - with a few adventures planned along the way. Turning off the main highway, we started across great swaths of semi-desert, and stopped to see guanacos - a South American animal related to the camel - loping along beside the rutted road.<br />
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They blend in well!<br />
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The next stop on the penguin tour was to see desert foxes (which also blend in exceptionally well). Kudos to our guide Paola for spotting them!</div>
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While it was impressive that Paola could spot the foxes, that she found us desert owls was "a hoot"! (She admitted she knew where their underground next was, so she knew approximately where they might be.)</div>
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We finally arrived at the pier where we would embark on the boat to Isla Damas. First, though, we saw this van:</div>
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Finally, two hours into our tour to see penguins, we were finally at the water, almost seeing penguins! </div>
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Aboard the boat:</div>
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We headed toward the island, then got side-tracked. Dolphins!!<br />
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Approaching the island, we saw sea otters and various types of cormorants...<br />
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...followed by sea lions...</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwyMVaOlXj78FPySABZSr6yUzUeQc8Tm-B7viDBzjL3GQMBRahunKTxaWfm7ADwhoduV5kdGrcZtotcgM6acw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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...and then finally the main event: PENGUINS!</div>
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After a slow tour of the coastline where the penguins and sea lions were basking in the sun, we were dropped off at a neighboring island (tourists aren't allowed on Isla Damas) so that we could bask in the sun, ourselves.</div>
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Jeans don't make the best beachwear, but it was a good thing I was wearing pants. My exposed skin was pretty dark by the end of a half hour. We returned to our boat, had a quick lunch at a local restaurant, and began the journey back to La Serena through the rutted desert roads. We saw desert foxes and guanacos out the window along the way, but we didn't stop on the way back.<br />
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Back at the hotel, after an exhilarating and exhausting day, we covered our sun-burned skin with lotion (or, at least, my sun-burned skin, as Mindy had thought to put on sunblock) and chilled out for the night.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-91366305328979213482017-02-28T12:47:00.000-08:002017-03-07T13:06:44.032-08:00La Serena<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We enjoyed our last breakfast at Quiral Boutique Hotel this morning, then began the six-hour bus journey to La Serena, far north of Santiago.<br />
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(We looked a little less enthused five and a half hours later - still on the bus.)<br />
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Chile is a thin country, and so much of the drive was either through desert mountains or along the stunning coastline. It was pretty easy to while away the hours heading north.<br />
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Uruguay has achieved a 95% reliance on renewable energy, and it appears that Chile is taking note.<br />
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The Mapuche people - some of the original inhabitants of what was eventually Chile - had a tradition where the men would paint themselves like spirits in dark and white stripes, naked, and then wake the women up in the middle of the night to scare them. (I would be scared, too, if the neighbourhood guys woke me up in the middle of the night and danced around me naked!) Graffiti meant to recall the Mapuche traditions is fairly common outside of the downtown Santiago neighbourhoods where we've been staying.</div>
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Always on the lookout for dogs wanting attention, Mindy found a friend on the walk from the bus station to our La Serena hotel!</div>
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Shaking the bus ride out of our legs, we went for a run with purpose - to the Ecoturismo office (top ranked tours in La Serena according to Trip Advisor) and to check out a local market where I tried a traditional bread snack. We were probably already odd-looking clients in our running gear.</div>
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As we were booking the tours, I couldn't help but confirm - repeatedly - "This is an English tour, right?" </div>
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Our run concluded just before the stunning sunsets that are a highlight of every clear day in La Serena.</div>
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At dinner, Mindy shared her meal with one of the local strays.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-31513913607141732402017-02-27T20:30:00.000-08:002017-03-07T12:47:47.487-08:00Brazilian Hospitality<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bom Dia! Como você está?</span></span><br />
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You won't be able to read that if you don't understand Portuguese. Neither do Mindy or I. This posed quote the challenge for us as we spent the day on a Portuguese-language tour to see the Chilean cities of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">No,this wasn't our idea of an adventure, immersing ourselves in order to start learning the language and enjoy the beauty of Brazilian culture. Rather, I had been explicitly clear with the tour operator on Saturday evening when he called me at the hotel to let me know they didn't have space on the English-language tour on Sunday for Mindy and me (that we had already booked). </span></span></div>
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"Can you take a Spanish-language tour tomorrow?" he asked hopefully; "otherwise we will have to refund you your money". </span></span></div>
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"Neither my wife nor I speak Spanish", I replied, "so we wouldn't gain anything from such a tour. Do you have availability on the English-language tour on Monday? We can change our plans and do that, instead."</span></span></div>
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"Yes, we can put you on the Monday tour."</span></span></div>
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<span lang="PT" style="color: #212121; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Excellent! The tour itinerary looked pretty stellar: two wineries, the twin coastal cities of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, and a lunch at a high-end restaurant. We were excited that timing had worked out, and with the impromptu run with Team Mora yesterday, it really seemed that everything had lined up perfectly. </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mindy first noticed that the tour driver who picked us up in the morning seemed to have a weak (VERY weak) handle on English, but she theorized that we would be joining another English group. Or maybe the guides were at each destination? Optimistic thinking, as it turned out. When the driver said something to us in Portuguese, then stared uncomfortably at us as we stared uncomprehending back at him, one of the other participants on the tour translated to English for us and told us that they were all Brazilians on this tour, including the driver. Um.....??!!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From that point, the guides explanations were translated (more or less) through a combination of the imperfect English among some of the participants on the tour, as well as a translation app on one very kind woman's cell phone. At one point, the guide spoke at length as we were driving, gesturing first to one side and then the other. When he finished, a very kind woman on the tour told "They used to mine silver here, but now the mines are closed." </span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was not the best way to absorb the details of the region, let alone ask questions. </span><br />
<span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mindy and I felt very out of place.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tours are about more than the words, though, and the language barrier didn't prevent us from enjoying the stunning setting of Emiliana biodynamic winery in the Casablanca Valley.</span><br />
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The alpacas fertilize the soil and eat the leaves, exposing the grapes to more sun (to make them sweeter). Southbrook biodynamic winery in Niagara on the Lake uses sheep for the same purpose. (Of course, they are also aa good tourist attraction at Emiliana.)</div>
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If only I could taste everything!</div>
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Stunning! And so is the winery building!</div>
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We didn't learn until several days later that an overflowing handful of grapes is all that is required to make a bottle of wine...</div>
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(In Mindy's defense, our tour guide brought several handfuls into the car for us to eat, so the precedence was set.)</div>
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The next winery.....was generally forgettable, including the name. Kind of a tourist-trap shop selling all kinds of stuff. The good part was that they continuously replenished the long line of tasting glasses set up at the bar, and one could ("theoretically") go back several times. We never learned anything about the wine, so it wasn't your classic tasting, but it was tasty!</div>
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As we entered Valparaiso, we saw a reminder that Chile is on the "ring of fire" - more or less the circumference of the Pacific Ocean, where earthquakes are common.</div>
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Pablo Neruda's house was next; or one of his four recognized houses, anyway. Pablo Neruda was a poet, possibly a painter, and probably a politician. (So it goes when the tour is conducted in another language.) This house, now converted into a museum, is closed on Mondays, so we crowded around the gate for a moment, then climbed back into the van.<br />
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The main square in Valparaiso is dominated by a statue of.....somebody. Not sure who.</div>
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At this point, with the help of one of the English-speaking guests on the tour, we told our guide that we would dessert his tour and find our own way home from Valparaiso (there are regular buses back to Santiago). Our guide seemed quite concerned by this and exacted a promise from us that we would stay with them until lunch, at which point he would try to find an English tour that could take us on. It seemed reasonable, and so we agreed.</div>
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Ultimately, it was a good thing that we did, because this tour we were on stated to get better pretty much right after that. We carried on to an artisans market in Valparaiso, set up on a high hill overlooking the harbour.</div>
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Look closely, and you will see these gentlemen are playing checkers (or something like it) with bottle caps for pieces.<br />
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Panhandlers seem to work a little harder in Chile than, say, in Toronto. Not only do you have your usual "squeegee kids", you also have others that try to earn "tips" like buskers.</div>
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While Valparaiso is gritty, covered in graffiti, and feels old, Vina del Mar feels like another "mini Miami". The two cities are only 8km away, connected by a highway along the coast. </div>
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Though the view was stunning, it was at this point that we realised we wouldn't be able to get the classic shot of Valparaiso - colourful houses clinging to the cliff edge overlooking the port.</div>
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Lunch was good, but Alberto, our guide, was unable to find an English tour to take us on. We felt a little cheated, now out of Valparaiso, having missed a walking tour of the city, and still isolated among the Brazilians on the tour. </div>
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I was unhappy as we made our way back into the van, until the driver mentioned the next stop - a real moai from Easter Island! Very cool! Mindy and I had wanted to go to Easter Island as part of this trip, but timing didn't work out. This way, we would get the next best thing - to see a real moai!</div>
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Breathtaking to see one in real life - this carved stone statue depicting a god of the Rapa Nui people on Easter Island from 500-1000 years ago. Unfortunately, like so many things, there's another side to this. As a sign of goodwill, the Chilean government had given moai to various countries over the years. One of these "redistributed" moai was given to the city Vina del Mar. As the Rapa Nui gained a voice in political affairs, they demanded the return of these moai which were taken without their consent. Countries all over the world agreed to return the moai to Easter Island. But not Vina del Mar. They have kept this valuable artifact as an important tourist attraction!</div>
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According to our itinerary, the tour was over, but Alberto - sensing that Mindy and I were a little underwhelmed by the day - had another trick up his sleeve. He drove us well off the usual path to a rocky outcropping where he knew we were likely to see sea lions!</div>
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He can't speak English, but in a lot of ways, he was an ideal tour guide for today!</div>
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We finished the tour with a last look over Vina del Mar, and then drove back to Santiago through the stunning mountains as dusk moved in.</div>
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Back in Santiago, we found a lively collection of restaurants for our dinner, set to the tunes of the nightly DJ.</div>
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And then Mindy made a friend on the way back to our hotel.</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6238522091670440535.post-36207202095219124552017-02-26T11:45:00.000-08:002017-03-07T06:08:26.381-08:00Running: A Universal Language<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We tried to book a tour for today, but the English tour was full. As a result, we had an unscheduled day to explore Santiago. What better way than to run?<br />
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Though Santiago is a large and sprawling metropolis, it has an impressive parks system with paved and crushed cinder paths for running. As we made our way through Parque Forestal - the park system that runs parallel to the river through the city in the posh Providencia neighbourhood - we spotted a pack of runners up ahead. Mindy chased them for social reasons...it's possible I had a competitive urge to catch them as well! We followed them to the base of San Cristobal Hill, an 830 metre climb in the middle of Santiago. Immediately, they welcomed us to join them (and a few random stray dogs) on their run.<br />
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The paved route passed a zoo, and then we followed our new Team Mora friends onto the dirt trails. (Past a sign that read "Do Not Enter - Danger".</div>
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The views of the city, with the Andes in the background, were spectacular! (And afforded us ample opportunity to catch our collective breath from the steep trails.)</div>
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The peak of San Cristobal Hill is a massive outdoor church, with a church in homage to the Virgin Mary at the top.</div>
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A more traditional church also sits near the top.</div>
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The running crew gathered for a photo near the peak, unusually quiet at this early hour (as we later learned).</div>
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I had little difficulty keeping up with the group as we climbed, so I was not worried when a Belgian couple asked if I could show them a trail route down the hill. They were slower than Team Mora's runners, but I can catch up, and I remember the route...except I almost didn't. I nearly took this Belgian couple down the road route, turning back a few steps past the hidden trail entrance. Phew! </div>
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Having set the Belgians on the right track, I started racing down the switchbacks to catch up to my crew (including Mindy). A few turns later....I still didn't see anyone. I should have found someone by now...? I asked someone if he spoke English; when he said he spoke a little, I asked whether he had seen runners come down the hill ahead of me. His face lighted up as he said "Yes, this way to run down the hill". I felt relief for a moment, until I thought about what he had said. Maybe he thought I was asking whether this route was good for running down the hill? I stopped the next group of people and asked whether any of them spoke English. One of them confidently (and fluently) replied that she did. "Did you see a group of runners come down this way a few moments ago?" I asked. "How big a group?" she probed. When I explained it was at least 8-10 people, she assured me that she hadn't seen any.</div>
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Huh.</div>
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I had a cell phone with a map, my wallet, and a good idea how to get back to the hotel. While I was confident Mindy would find her way, she had made it clear that she was relying on me for directions as we headed out. I pulled out my phone in case one of the other runners with Mindy tried calling, then turned around and raced back up the (steep) hill. How many routes down San Cristobal are there? I wondered....</div>
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Quickly enough, I saw Mindy running down the hill toward me, accompanied by Raul, the head coach of Team Mora, (I later learned that Mindy said she would find me herself, but Raul had none of that and generously insisted he would help.) Grateful and relieved to have been found, Raul led us on a shortcut to catch back up with his group. It was only then that we learned from Raul that the loop for today was 20+ km, including several more climbs and trails. Wow. I didn't expect that when we headed out from the hotel this morning!</div>
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Sure enough, we found Team Mora and rejoined the group as Raul led us into more dirt trails along the steep edges of San Cristobal Hill. To avoid any risk of getting lost again, I split my time between two of the stronger (and English-speaking) runners in the group - Gustavo and Anders. Gustavo, an engineer, talked about wanting to come work in Canada, but he has to work on his English first. While his English is very good, I can see that technical jargon may prove a new challenge. Through Gustavo I also learned about the impressive resume of Raul, our fearless leader: 28:50 for 10k, and 2:20 for the marathon. Damn! That is seriously good!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWX5MdeUDVvwJPg3H-aKcLb7-_G9QLnp-t1Kpk7iRMAanvwCClo2OIDnCSORLPedels9r9WgvX-D6H4sRVSVhRpx_W0ptudlMxx9W0XsXORhgMHj0_kkx2iuH95xLf8cEymJhuYkb8HdP/s1600/20170226_110129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWX5MdeUDVvwJPg3H-aKcLb7-_G9QLnp-t1Kpk7iRMAanvwCClo2OIDnCSORLPedels9r9WgvX-D6H4sRVSVhRpx_W0ptudlMxx9W0XsXORhgMHj0_kkx2iuH95xLf8cEymJhuYkb8HdP/s320/20170226_110129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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At the bottom of the hill with Anders, Gustavo, Carolina, and Mindy again!</div>
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We ran Team Mora back to the park where they start their runs, and gave a round of high-fives as each runner finished (in classic Chilean fashion, lots of air kisses were shared to say good-bye, but I was spared those sweaty kisses). Then Mindy and I slowly jogged back to Quiral Hotel Boutique, from where we had set out three hours earlier. Though breakfast had ended long before, we found one table set for us and breakfast set aside, as they hadn't seen us eat. So thoughtful!</div>
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We spent our afternoon lazing around in the beautiful hotel garden and wandering the streets of Santiago, checking out various markets and vendors. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJcpKRNVE3Q_BU11bDk93O6yc7mEQswH_mEVQKCjOY7R85zVbh401MtxfT8ljja0vhd3NY7masYyrG8faxJ7hGUnMOYKpqImJ_Rzuhc_uppxebhSem1zP5ZY7DXzt1px5u5-Cos0HO0h1M/s1600/20170226_175655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJcpKRNVE3Q_BU11bDk93O6yc7mEQswH_mEVQKCjOY7R85zVbh401MtxfT8ljja0vhd3NY7masYyrG8faxJ7hGUnMOYKpqImJ_Rzuhc_uppxebhSem1zP5ZY7DXzt1px5u5-Cos0HO0h1M/s320/20170226_175655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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At a Canadian dinner time, we lined up at Galindo restaurant - the highly recommended spot for traditional Chilean food - for dinner. Sizing up the line, Mindy asked the gentleman in front of us whether there was anywhere else nearby that could offer similar fare. Though we were in one of the restaurant districts in Santiago, he said "No, not this good."</div>
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Looking for the vegetarian options in a restaurant that specializes in the traditional food of a meat-centered cuisine is limiting. We found the two options and ordered one of each: a humitas dish, similar to what we had yesterday with Gabriela, and a bean stew. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6jzDGTgRp-8GCvGWqhNntYcXCBRFHe4rS5mjYFNJUGHB8J8sxncsHsoqyeEQEpIr-aRbAzmL7Ehp_nbhEiCsOxTVJ0uI0o8WElthb901IEFs8WUOl3fWgWRCAITA0wuKV5v6coKXnHgB/s1600/20170226_170933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6jzDGTgRp-8GCvGWqhNntYcXCBRFHe4rS5mjYFNJUGHB8J8sxncsHsoqyeEQEpIr-aRbAzmL7Ehp_nbhEiCsOxTVJ0uI0o8WElthb901IEFs8WUOl3fWgWRCAITA0wuKV5v6coKXnHgB/s320/20170226_170933.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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I was tempted by the traditional Chilean desserts, but having had ice cream on the walk to the restaurant, I passed on more sugar. As it is, ice cream is practically a Chilean specialty now, with the way they love it!</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17189554026469518922noreply@blogger.com0