A Palace at Sintra

When we were planning this trip, Mindy learned about the various palaces in the city of Sintra, a short train ride away from Lisbon. Mindy wanted to see the beautiful palaces and breathe in the fresh air of the mountains, and I wanted to learn about the history of the place – another Sandeman’s tour seemed appropriate.

We arrived a few minutes before the designated time and were told to grab a coffee as our guide hadn’t arrived yet. A few minutes later, breakfast in hand, we returned to the meeting spot and were told our guide had already left??!! Slight breakdown in communication…. Anyway, the small group was only just leaving the square so we caught up easily enough and started the journey to Sintra.

During the tour yesterday, Pascal referred to Sintra as “Disney” and we soon learned why. Sintra appears to be a series of middle ages palaces built in the shadow of an ancient Moorish fortress. The fortress atop the mountain is genuine, and one other palace actually hails from Portugal’s golden age. The rest was recreated in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries by those with money and a romantic notion of Europe’s romantic era.

The Moorish fortress was built to protect Lisbon from Viking invasions (they landed away from Lisbon’s fortified harbor and marched on the city from the mountains).

The striking twin chimneys of this palace reflect its primary use as a hunting lodge. Each chimney could handle several animals being roasted on spits in the palace kitchen.

In Portugal’s checkered past of royal succession, this palace also represented the bastard King John’s efforts to solidify his reign. He enlarged the palace and built houses for client’s wishing to receive his patronage. Inside, a hall is entirely dedicated to those noblemen who supported his claim to the throne.

This fountain was built in the early twentieth century as a homage to the old style of making tiles, where the tints are prevented from bleeding into one another through shallow depressions in the tile itself – made while the clay is still soft.

Though Quinta da Regaleira palace was built in the 1920s by the fabulously wealthy Carvalho Monteiro, (this palace was one of two private residences with electricity when it was built; the other being the King’s palace...) its novelty as a fantasy land doesn’t detract from its picturesque beauty.

  

The grounds also reflect a number of Masonic characteristics, suggesting that Monteiro was one of that secret society.

The inverted tower or initiation well leads to a labyrinth of caves. When a new member of the order was initiated, he would have to then make his way through the unlit caves in the black of night and walk on water to be reborn.

Mindy’s ability to walk on water looks a little less impressive in the daylight. Also, the water level used to be high enough that the stone were ever-so-slightly submerged.

And finally, we were at the house, itself.

Until the 1970s, this house and these grounds were all owned by a Japanese corporation that used it for company retreats. When they planned to knock it down, a Portuguese citizen (believed to be a Mason) lobbied the national government to purchase it from this private company and turn it into a heritage monument.

Tired from the walking and the intense history lesson from our guide Francisco, we returned to the train and journeyed back to Lisbon. (We planned to meet the group for lunch at Lawrence’s restaurant, the oldest restaurant in Sintra, but ultimately decided we would be better served by a meal on the train and more time in Lisbon.)

Back wandering through the city streets, we bought some Ginginha from the original store (and a shot of it right there) and found a tasty little sport for a smoothie to tide us over until dinner. (It may seem like we ate lunch and then immediately needed a snack before dinner. The truth is that we had a light breakfast, then subsisted on a sugar high from a couple of pastries in Sintra until a small sandwich each on the train back. We hadn’t eaten much, and most of what we did eat was flour and sugar.)

Mindy found another tasty vegetarian spot for dinner...though in her pregnant state, I suspect the 700m walk up steep streets and stairs made her rethink this destination. (NAME) was tasty and in my opinion well worth the walk. (Not quite as good as Jardim de los Sentidos, but they can’t all be “tens”.)

While Mindy got settled in the apartment, I spent a few more minutes wandering through Lisbon to soak in our last evening here. While Mindy and I had been out together, we were occasionally approached by people looking to sell drugs. (It was hilarious and scary how quickly it would escalate: “Psst, want some hash? Marijuana? Cocaine?”) When I was out solo on the streets at night, I literally had someone following me trying to get me to buy. “Want some hash? Marijuana? Cocaine? I’ll give you a good price. Really cheap. I’ve got anything you want? Tell you what – try some for free and if you like it you pay me? Ok? Deal? Want some for free?”

Mum, I guess you were right. Sometimes they really will offer you the first one free!